I like to schedule two haircuts a year: the first in spring and the second in fall. Cutting plants back can rejuvenate and stimulate growth. That works in spring but, as a matter of pruning basics, autumn is not a good time to do extensive pruning.

New growth from hard fall pruning won't have much time to get established before frosts set in. Damaged plants will struggle next year, too.

However, there are some plants that profit from light trims in autumn. These are the ones I head to, pruners in hand, in September.

6 Plants to Prune in September

I’m ready, willing, and eager to prune plants in my garden over Labor Day weekend. Which ones should be on my list?

1. Blackberries

(Image credit: Oleg Opryshko / Getty Images)

Botanical name

Rubus spp.

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 5-9

Blackberry canes are the woody stems of blackberry plants. The root system and crown of the plant live for many years, while individual canes grow for two seasons. They are called primocanes in year one, then bear fruit as floricanes in year two. Then they die.

Prune blackberries and other bush fruit in September. (This category includes almost every similar plant in the berry patch, including summer-fruiting raspberries, black currents, gooseberries and red currents.) Use sharp pruners to take out the fruited stems. You can easily sharpen your pruners with a Corona carbide sharpening tool from Home Depot. And always be sure to sterilize them with rubbing alcohol before and after use to reduce the spread of disease between plants.

Essentially, you want to cut down these floricanes (second-year fruiting canes) at ground level in September. Take care not to leave stubs. Don’t trim or cut the green canes (primocanes).

2. Peonies

(Image credit: Mulevich / Shutterstock)

Botanical name

Paeonia officinalis

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 3-9

Is your September garden overcrowded with tall and messy perennials? Now’s the time to clean up the perennial bed, starting with peonies. Peonies are long-lived perennial plants with large, lush, gorgeous flowers.

In September, remove all the dead plant material and debris, including dead flower stems and basal foliage. The dead stems are often hollow, so trim them back low at an angle to prevent them from filling up with water and rotting. If new growth has already formed at the base of the clump, make the pruning cut just above it.

3. Rosemary

(Image credit: ARTFULLY PHOTOGRAPHER / Shutterstock)

Botanical name

Salvia rosmarinus

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 8-10

Don’t worry about annual herbs like basil or cilantro. They are dead by September or will die back soon. If they are wilted already, you can just add them to the compost. But September is a good time to take the snippers to rosemary in the perennial herb garden. These evergreen plants have aromatic needles and indigo blue summer flowers.

Rosemary and other herbs that grow in the Mediterranean region in Europe will die if they are pruned in winter. These shrubs – including rosemary, lavender, oregano and thyme – should all get trimmed in September.

But don’t head over to the perennial herb garden with the idea of chopping rosemary, or any of these herbs, to the soil. The idea is a light pruning to tidy them up, snip off browning spent stems, deadhead their withered tips and reshape them.

4. Yew Trees and Hedges

(Image credit: Marina Denisenko / Getty Images)

Botanical name

Taxus spp.

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 2-10

In landscaping, yew is a top choice as a foundation plant in front of homes. It is also commonly used in hedging. While many hedge shrubs won’t tolerate late pruning, yew shrubs are hardy and tough enough to sail through a September clip. Lots of homeowners prefer to clip their hedges once, and only once, every year. If this is you, think September.

One of the tricky parts about clipping a yew hedge is keeping the top level. Here’s one tried and true trick: install a guide line. What does this mean? Figure out how much lower you want your hedge to be, then push stakes down into the ground at regular intervals. Tie twine to the canes at the level you want the hedge to end up, then use that twine line as a guide as you cut.

5. Shasta Daisy

(Image credit: Thanachod Suya / Shutterstock)

Botanical name

Leucanthemum x superbum

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 5-9

Shasta daisy plants bring joy to the garden. Their bright white petals with sunny yellow centers just make you happy. Shasta daisies don’t need frequent pruning. Don’t hesitate to deadhead, however, since you are likely to get more blooms and a flowering period that is longer.

But no matter what you do, these prolific bloomers will ultimately cease producing more of the cheerful, daisy-like flowers as the growing season comes to an end. September is usually the time.

After flowering is definitively done for the season, the plant is ready for its fall haircut. Trim back stems to just above the leaves at the base of the plant. Then remove all debris from the garden bed. This cleans up the garden and can also help this perennial return stronger the following year.

6. Garden Phlox

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Botanical name

Phlox paniculata

Hardiness

USDA hardiness zones 3-9

If your garden phlox plants look bedraggled toward the end of summer, or if you are dealing with phlox mildew every year, pruning can help. Pruning phlox before winter can stop powdery mildew from infecting your plant and it can increase blooms as well the following spring.

Garden phlox blooms start blooming later in the season than creeping phlox. This type of phlox reaches its peak blooming period toward early autumn. September is a good time for pruning. Cut off the top third of tall phlox stems. This will increase air circulation and make fungal diseases less likely. After the first killing frost, chop off the plant at ground level.

Do NOT Prune in September

(Image credit: Masako Ishida / Getty Images)

Ready for a “definitely don’t prune” list? There are a few categories of plants that should never be trimmed back in fall.

• Do not prune spring-blooming plants in September, since they have set their flowers already and pruning would limit or eliminate spring blossoms.
• Do not cut back plants with strong winter seedheads. The birds overwintering in your garden have other plans for those seeds.
• Do not cut back that queen of the garden: roses. These are among the flowering plants most likely to produce new shoots once trimmed, new shoots that will suffer from winter cold and may endanger the entire bush.
• Do not prune fruit trees like apple trees, cherry trees or pear trees. It’s a much better idea to wait until winter and prune while these trees are dormant. Fall pruning, again, can result in new shoots vulnerable to winter weather.

Ashley Tisdale now goes by her married name, Ashley French, and it couldn't be more fitting. From her Malibu beach house to her wellness brand Frenshe, almost everything she shares has a chic European feel.

As is so often the case in French garden design, it's relaxed rather than formal, layered rather than polished – and that effortless aesthetic extends outdoors, too... particularly with regards to her choice of planters. Instead of glossy pots or brightly colored containers, the Disney legend leans into weathered terracotta, aged stone and classic Wuthering Heights-esque urns that instantly make a patio or garden feel as though it's been there for decades.

The catch? Well, authentic French terracotta urns, Versailles planters and antique stone containers can cost hundreds – sometimes even thousands – of dollars. Thankfully, though, you don't actually need the real thing to capture the look. And, once I spoke to designers, I realized it's less about buying an expensive planter and more about understanding the handful of design principles that make French-inspired containers feel so timeless...

1. It's About Age, Not Price

The most important thing about nailing Ashley Tisdale's French planter aesthetic is that it needs to look “old” but not neglected, and getting that balance is key.

Erik Collado Vidal, horticulturalist and CEO of Growbarato.net, explains what gives these containers their character: "A well-made French container has the appearance of sitting next to a stone wall for years," he says, noting that terracotta, stone, zinc, concrete and aged metal are the best materials.

"You do not need a luxurious antique item to create the look. You can treat the container with a little dirt, yogurt and watered-down exterior paint or a rub of dirt and limewash."

(Image credit: Esschert Design)

That yogurt trick is actually genius! The bacteria in yogurt encourages moss and algae to grow, causing a new terracotta pot to age within weeks. A new pot rubbed down with a bit of yogurt and left outside in a damp spot will look 10 years older by the end of the summer.

If you'd rather skip the yogurt experiment (especially if it’s hot outside, yuck!), a pot of Meoded Lime Wash (available on Amazon) brushed on and partially wiped back achieves the same chalky, aged finish in about ten minutes and works on terracotta, concrete and resin.

Jean-Christophe Thery, CEO of MusaArtGallery, makes the same point from a design perspective: "The biggest mistake is over-styling it. French-inspired spaces usually feel best when they look collected over time, not bought in one afternoon."

2. Shape Is Everything

(Image credit: sasimoto)

Not all planters will work for Ashley Tisdale's style, as certain shapes are super French and others just... well, they just aren’t. Erik gives a useful shortlist of the right forms, noting that "there are spherical clay containers, square Versailles-style boxes, tapered pots, low bowls and urns."

The Versailles box? That square, paneled wood planter raised up with decorative corner feet? That is one of the most recognizable French shapes.

Dmytro Tkach, owner of DT Renovation LLC, who regularly incorporates high-end planters into custom deck projects, adds a practical note on material selection. "Authentic unglazed clay terracotta or heavily textured cast stone provides the structural presence and elegance required for a true European garden look. Finishes should feature earthy slip-glazes in warm ochre or deep olive green."

Shop French Planters:

Esschert Design Large French Urn

Worth Worth Garden Large Urn Planter

A terracotta urn is an easy and timeless way to transform your garden instantly.

Esschert Design Cast Iron French Urn Planter

Dmytro also flags something worth knowing if you're placing heavy planters on a deck or elevated surface. "Always calculate the weight of wet soil and heavy stone planters before placing them on elevated outdoor structures to avoid structural sagging," he says, noting that a large cast stone urn filled with wet compost is much heavier than it looks.

If you want the urn silhouette without the weight or the price, this Worth Garden set (available on Amazon) delivers two 22-inch imitation stone urns for the price of one decent real terracotta pot, and at 30% the weight of ceramic, you can actually move them around without putting your back out.

3. Consider The Color Rule

(Image credit: Getty Images)

One of the easiest ways to instantly make a planter arrangement look more French and less garden-center is to edit your color palette like a ruthless American Idol judge.

Erik is clear on this. "Only use 2 or 3 similar tones such as light green, milk, grey, and clay. Too many matching pots, too many colors, or too shiny of a modern finish will create a staged look," he says.

Dmytro agrees from an interior-design angle. "For a budget version, I'd focus on aged-looking neutral planters, lavender, herbs, climbing greenery, and one or two strong visual anchors instead of too many decorative pieces."

Two or three containers in the same tonal family, varied in height, will look better than six matching pots in a row every single time.

4. And Think About What to Plant in Them

(Image credit: Undefined Undefined / Getty Images)

The French kitchen garden and courtyard look has a fairly consistent plant vocabulary, and fortunately most of it is affordable and easy to grow.

Erik's plant list is the most comprehensive: "Lavender, rosemary, thyme, santolina, boxwood, olive, pelargoniums, climbing roses, and soft grasses." All of these do well in containers, most are drought-tolerant once established, and many of them smell absolutely delicious (an underrated reason why French gardens feel so atmospheric).

Dmytro keeps it even simpler: "Lavender, herbs, climbing greenery, and one or two strong visual anchors." A clipped boxwood ball in a worn urn is doing more design work than a dozen different bedding plants in matching plastic pots.

Phenomenal lavender, like this pack of three from Walmart, is worth choosing over a generic variety: it's been specifically bred to resist rot and disease, handles both hot summers and cold winters, and the silvery-green foliage will have you feeling like you just traveled straight to Provence.

Erik sums up the planting approach well. "Look for a casual look of style and form. If you're looking for shape, a cut evergreen plant in a worn urn will do the job. You can add spilling flowers or herbs to add to the informality."

BONUS: Try The Budget Shortcut Nobody Mentions

The single most transformative thing you can do for a budget planter is age it before you plant it. Buy the cheapest terracotta or concrete pot you can find, paint it with watered-down grey or cream exterior paint, leaving patches showing through, then rub it with dirt.

Leave it outside for a few weeks, and the result looks like something that's been sitting in a courtyard in Provence for decades. After that, lavender, a clipped boxwood, and some trailing rosemary will take care of the rest.

If it's good enough for Ashley Tisdale, it's good enough for us! Très bien!

As August comes to an end, a gardener’s thoughts turn to fall flowers. Now is the perfect time to refill containers for color and fragrance into autumn. Spring flowers are just a memory and summer plantings are beginning to look faded.

When you are looking for fall flowers for pots, you can’t just grab the first plants that come to hand. You need fast-blooming, cold-tolerant, long lasting plants that will provide flowers that brighten the backyard as the temperatures cool.

That's why I've put together this shortlist for you of the five best fall-blooming flowers to fill your containers with bright autumn color from now until winter hits.

Fast-Growing Fall Flowers for Pots

It makes sense to try new, exotic plants in the summer garden. The season is so full of growing green tips and blossoms and fruit that you can afford to take a risk on something different. But as summer wanes and fall arrives, you want tried-and-true fall favorites. Here are the top popular container flowers for fall.

1. Asters

(Image credit: Sophie McAula / Alamy)

Botanical Name

Aster spp.

Hardiness

USDA Zones 3-8

Adding fall color to your backyard is going to cost you something – so why not spend money on fall-blooming perennials that comes back year after year? Annuals can be like rockstars. They live fast and die quickly. If you want something that comes back each year, asters could be your best answer.

Asters flower in late summer and early fall, when other blooms are fading. They offer happy flowers that look like a blend between mums and daisies – and these flowers seem to bloom forever. There are numerous aster varieties that range in size from tiny to tall in colors from white to blue, pink, and purple. You can get a 4-pack of purple asters now from Home Depot.

Asters are easy to grow and fit well into containers. Late-season pollinators will approve of this choice, too. Use asters in pots appropriate for the aster's mature size. Select a pot that is as wide as your plant’s mature width and about half of its mature height.

Make your asters happy by picking pots that have adequate drain holes and use potting soil that drains well. Place the pot in a site that gets 6 hours a day of direct sun. Check the soil every other day and water when dry.

2. Pansies & Violas

(Image credit: Lili Chirila / 500px / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Viola spp.

Hardiness

USDA Zones 3-8

It’s hard not to love a pansy flower, with its cute “face” and bright jewel-tone colors. These cool-season plants, often grown as annuals, are just made for autumn temperatures and are ideal for fall containers.

They ride right through light frosts, bouncing back from even single-digit temperatures. If you want pansies to last as long into winter as possible, pick winter pansies (Viola hiemalis). Wait until weather cools a bit before planting. You can pre-order a wide variety of pansies from Burpee to suit any color palette.

Set up your pansies in containers with ample drainage holes. Use moist, humus-rich, well-draining soil and place your pots in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. The sun helps them to bloom, but they live longest in cooler weather.

Watering is a little trickier. As soon as you set up your new pansy containers, they need daily water. Don’t worry! Those drooping pansies are not dead even if they are lying on the soil, they just need big drinks. After a couple of weeks, you can cut back watering to once a week or so.

3. Million Bells

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Calibrachoa x hybrida

Hardiness

USDA Zones 9-11

Million bells grow fast and bloom profusely. No, you may not get a million blooms, but you’ll get too many to count. Many gardeners (including me!) grow this warm-weather perennial as an annual. But the lovely blooms, which look like small petunias, ride out the cooling weather well.

Million bells is a fabulous container plant thanks to its mounding growth habit. In fact, it works so well in pots that it is rare to see it planted in the ground. Flowers come in white, blue, pink, purple, red, yellow, and even bronze. You can find all those colors of calibrachoa and more for sale at the Home Depot.

Again, make sure your containers have drain holes and use rich, well-draining soil. Put them in a location that gets full sun or – if necessary – partial sun. Give these plants enough water to keep the soil evenly moist.

4. Chrysanthemums

(Image credit: JTyler / Getty Images)

Botanical Name

Chrysanthemum x morifolium

Hardiness

USDA Zones 5-9

If there is one plant we associate with autumn, it would be mums. Chrysanthemums are the ultimate fall classic. Known as the “Queen of the Fall,” mums bloom profusely, their jewel-toned flowering magically changing your front porch into a magnificent display of fall color.

While mums can be perennials, those pretty plants available in garden centers in September are best treated as annuals. You can find mums almost anywhere in fall or order these beautiful mums in a decorative pot that come in a variety of colors from the Home Depot.

Chrysanthemum flowers are really gorgeous, available in such a wide range of jewel tones it boggles the mind. Look for shades of white, yellow, pink, lavender, purple, red, bronze, and orange. Each flower isn’t just one flower. It is made up of myriad tiny flowers called florets. Some varieties are tiny, while others are giant.

Plant your fall mums in a container with drain holes. Use well-draining potting soil, too, and give them ample direct sun. Water deeply when a poke of the finger reveals dry soil.

5. Snapdragons

(Image credit: Baona / Shutterstock)

Botanical Name

Antirrhinum majus

Hardiness

USDA Zones 5-9

Don’t let the fact that grandma planted snapdragons deter you. These classic old-fashioned flowers are still popular today – and they’re better than ever. The latest hybrids offer more hues and a wide variety of heights, ranging from teeny to knee high and trailing.

With all these improvements, snapdragons are still happy in cool fall weather and a perfect addition to your fall containers. Want bold pops of color in spring or fall? Think snapdragons!

It’s harder to describe the snapdragon flower than many others, because there are so many different variations. And the available colors are too many to list out, especially when you take into account the showy bicolored and tricolored varieties.

You can buy them as plants, like this 4-pack of pink snapdragons from Home Depot, for fast flowers or you can start your own plants with snapdragon seeds from Burpee.

Put any variety that isn’t too tall in your containers, focusing on dwarf and trailing types. Needless to say, you’ll want a container that drains well filled with high-quality potting mix. Water frequently until they are established, then cut back irrigation to a few times a week.

The words “hummingbird” and “sweet spot” seem made for each other. As bird lovers with yards that can cater to our winged friends, we are custodians for nurturing that sweet spot in vital ways. It’s not just about giving our visiting hummers nectar in abundance, although this is central to the deal. On a profound level, the real sweet spot of hummingbird feeding is an idyllic combination of sanctuary and safety, as well as sustenance. It’s about priming a location where a tiny traveler flying thousands of miles can catch its breath. It’s also a commitment to forge trust as well as treats.

This time of year, depending on where you live, the backyard may already be feeling extra buzzy. Fall migration is in full swing, and millions of tiny feathered acrobats are zipping through on the massive mission south. If you want to attract hummingbirds and help with hummingbird feeding this fall, it’s not just about decorating yards with plants that look good or taste nice: it’s about becoming guardians of fueling stations to best support these intrepid beaky beauties on their migration superhighway. If you can create this sweet spot for hummers, your yard can become a bustling pitstop for one of nature’s most miraculous journeys.

The wonderful news? You don’t need loads of kit or a massive yard to become the most popular diner on the block. With just a handful of key gestures and mindful feeding behaviors, even a small patio or suburban border can easily be transformed to give you a glimpse of this epic adventure. The right hummer hot spot is about serving up the yummiest nectar in the safest ways. These 5 insider secrets give you the winning formula to create the ultimate sweet spot this fall.

What are the Sweet Spot Secrets?

What actually creates a thriving hummingbird sweet spot? Yes, your hummer haven needs the right sugar source in order to fuel those epic journeys, which can often be thousands of miles long, as far as the Gulf of Mexico. To prime them for non-stop flight, they’ll need to be consuming up to double their weight in nectar every single day. But to help with that frantic migration push, you also need to position that sugar source in the absolute best spot in the yard. So the right layout is also critical.

Migrating hummers are on a tight schedule, so your sugary treats need to be conveniently placed, easy to access, and primed for safety. Supporting migrating hummingbirds in the right way combines easy visual cues and smart height ratios, balances bright colors with the right levels of sunlight and natural cover, and observes the natural habits and territory dynamics of these vibrating jewel beauties.

(Image credit: Peter Finch / Getty Images)

They may be capable of extraordinary travels, but the thing is, hummers are territorial creatures. A dominant male can quickly hog a feeder and dive at any weary traveler. But you can outsmart this feeder drama by making sure your hummingbird hangout has factored in ample spacing, strategic sightlines, and thoughtful flight corridors. Offering clear approaches lets incoming birds scout for danger, while nearby leaf cover gives timid hummers a place to retreat when a bully sweeps in.

It’s important to factor in the right nectar-rich hummingbird plants, or a classic manmade feeder, such as the Perky-Pet Pinch-Waist Glass Hummingbird Feeder from Amazon, which offers comfy perching and a built-in ant moat. But these extra secrets help you to max out your hummer retreat for visiting aerial acrobats. And these principles apply across the board, from glittering eastern ruby-throated hummingbirds to feisty western broad tails, Anna’s hummers, and Rufous. So, read on to fine-tune your backyard's feeding sweet spots for all visiting hummers…

Pick Your Feeder

(Image credit: Bob Warner / 500px / Getty Images)

Before introducing the easy 5-point sweet spot plan, make sure you’ve got the right feeder (or feeders) ready for your hummers. The right feeder balances visual appeal, easy cleaning, and smart extras like ant moats. Whether you fancy a heavy-duty workhorse built for numbers, or a hand-blown glass piece that doubles as garden art, these top-rated designs offer built-in perches, leak-resistant ports, and decorative accents that draw traveling hummingbirds straight to your yard.

Everyday Anchor

Perky-Pet Perky-Pet Favored Pinch-Waist Glass Hummingbird Feeder, 16 Oz

This time-tested classic features a translucent pinch-waist glass bottle, built-in ant moat, and 4 comfortable perching pins to give weary travelers a cozy landing pad. The bright red base pops against garden foliage, while the wide-mouth bottle unscrews effortlessly for quick daily scrubbing and refilling.

Window Safe Seat

uncommongoods Charmed Hummingbird Window Feeder

Mounting directly to your windowpane via heavy-duty suction cups, this ultra-clear feeder lets you observe tiny, shimmering feathers from inches away. Positioned safely, it eliminates fatal speed build-up from accidental window taps while providing front-row seats to tiny hungry beaks.

Artisanal Glass

Wayfair Arlmont & Co. Glass Hummingbird Feeder for Outdoor Hanging

Designed for busy fall migration corridors, this generous 24-ounce reservoir ensures you never run dry when hungry swarms pass through town. Equipped with 6 integrated bee guards, a built-in ant moat, and a leak-proof base gasket, it provides a hassle-free dining experience that stays nectar fresh.

1. The Nectar Sweet Spot

(Image credit: BirdImages / Getty Images)

The first and most literal of all the sweet spots involves getting the nectar just right. Choosing the right nectar powder is part of it, but it’s also about preparing it correctly in order to give hummers the ultimate sugar high. Never use red food dyes, honey, molasses, or unrefined sugars. Red dyes introduce unnecessary chemicals, honey fosters nasty fungal infections, and raw or brown sugars contain high iron levels that cause lethal liver toxicity in tiny birds. Go for a dedicated hummingbird nectar feed such as BirdBros Hummingbird Nectar from Amazon. What I like about this feed is that it is completely preservative free and dilutes well in warm water.

The winning recipe is 4 parts water to 1 part refined white sugar (sucrose): this literal sweet spot perfectly replicates the nectar hummingbirds sip in the wild to fuel their mammoth flights. Warm the water to dissolve the sugar completely. Stir in until dissolved, and always let it cool completely before filling feeder reservoirs.

(Image credit: Daniel Ripplinger / DansPhotoArt / Getty Images)

It’s also a good idea to plant nectar-rich tubular perennials nearby. Lush planting plans for hummer treats on their migratory travels will definitely include brightly colored monarda (bee balm) and brilliant red cardinal flowers (Lobelia cardinalis). Alongside your hummer-loving reds and pinks, don’t discount the right tasty blues and purples, though. Intense tubular blooms such as Sacred Roots Nursery Black and Blue Salvia, available from Walmart, make the ideal late season booster for migrating and visiting hummers with their electric-blue sugary bounty.

2. The Sightline Sweet Spot

(Image credit: Daniel Ripplinger / DansPhotoArt / 500px / Getty Images)

Sightlines are critical for hummers in flight, allowing for smooth, happy landings, but also well placed vantage points. It’s about balancing visibility with cover. Positioning your feeding station 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) away from natural shelter creates the ultimate spatial sweet spot for visiting hummingbirds. This sweet spot is close enough for an exhausted traveler to dive into protective branches if a sharp-shinned hawk appears overhead. Yet it is also far enough from dense bushes to stop sneaky cats from launching ambush attacks while hummers sup their surgery fuel.

Understanding how hummingbirds see the world can also help with determining the best sight lines. Thanks to their tetrachromatic vision, hummers can perceive ultraviolet light and hypersaturated tones. Deep red and orange shades glow like neon signs to their super-powered eyes. Setting out high-impact floral beacons like cardinal flowers, coral honeysuckle and monarda create a compelling landing strip.

(Image credit: Corey O'Hara / Getty Images)

Try growing vibrant, nectar-soaked American Beauties Major Wheeler Coral Honeysuckle from Nature Hills Nursery alongside cherry-red, mildew-resistant Pardon My Cerise Bee Balm, available from Plant Addicts to create an unmissable billboard for your hummer’s favorite fuelstop. They will be able to track these vibrant treasures from 50 feet (15m) away. If you’re working with a smaller yard space like a tight patio and tree canopies are limited, don’t worry. You can train a few climbing vines up a simple trellis using twine to establish safe, open-air perching corridors.

3. The Height Sweet Spot

(Image credit: Jen Tepp / Getty Images)

When it comes to hanging your hummingbird feeder, a height of 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8m) is the ultimate sweet spot secret to keeping your feathered acrobats safe and happy! Certain naturally available food sources are already designed to cater to this hummer-friendly height. Flowering plants like agastache (giant hyssop) can reach 5ft (1.5m) tall. But your dedicated nectar feeders will need that special boost in order to attract the greatest number of thirsty birdies.

The math behind this height rule is surprisingly clever. Average domestic house cats can leap up to 5 times their height, meaning an ambitious outdoor kitty can spring nearly 4 feet (1.2m) straight up into the air. Suspending your feeder port right at 5 feet (1.5m) keeps it safely out of jumping range while placing the reservoir at cozy eye level for effortless daily sugar refills. Even better, keeping feeders at this height stops muddy rainwater and crawling garden bugs from bouncing up into the ports during stormy late-summer afternoons.

(Image credit: Tongho58 / Getty Images)

Elevating your feeder correctly also helps outsmart turbulent autumn breezes. A flimsy setup hung on a floppy tree branch will swing around in the wind like a carnival ride, spilling sticky nectar all over the lawn and inviting unwanted yellow jackets to the party. Anchoring your feeding station using a shepherd’s hook reduces this issue. Feed Garden’s 76-inch Shepherd Hooks from Amazon are the perfect height. Once secured into the ground, these sturdy frames ably support multiple feeders at the correct sweet spot height.

Did you know hummingbirds drop vertically straight downward when startled? Their wings beat in a figure-8 motion at a dizzying 80 times per second, so having clear space under their feeding perches lets them execute lightning-fast getaways.

4. The Shade Sweet Spot

(Image credit: Rebecca Harding / Getty Images)

Protecting your sugar water from relentless direct sun is critical for preserving hummer health during late-summer heatwaves. So finding a cool, shady sweet spot is essential for hitting that sweet spot. Even September sunshine can cook sugar water, so it can ferment in a flash. Warm nectar quickly breeds nasty black mold and dangerous fungal spores like Candida albicans, which can create painful tongue swelling, making it impossible for hungry hummers to eat.

(Image credit: Ali Majdfar / Getty Images)

Hanging your feeder in dappled, leafy shade keeps your feeder treats crisp and fresh for up to 48 hours. As a bonus, this saves you from having to dump and scrub your feeder every afternoon. As well as hanging your feeder under a light shade, add a few shade-tolerant plants like hummer-friendly fuchsia to supplement your hummer sugar stash. If natural tree shade is sparse in your yard, you can install protectors, umbrellas or domes over your feeders. The Kingsyard Weather Dome from Amazon makes a useful shade protector, it can help to protect from rain, and can even help to keep squirrels away.

5. The Window Safety Sweet Spot

(Image credit: Thomas Winz / Getty Images)

Last but not least, basic window safety needs to be factored into every hummer feeding sweet spot. To keep them safe near windows, follow the "3-foot or 30-foot" window rule for the ultimate gesture of birdie goodwill. According to avian conservation science, feeders should be installed either less than 3 feet (1m) from a windowpane or more than 30 feet (9m) away. If a startled hummer takes off from a feeder hung within 3 feet (1m) of your window, it can’t build up enough flying speed to hurt itself if it taps the glass. The dangerous zone is that middle 3-to-30-foot stretch, where birds can rev up to top speed before realizing the glass isn't open air.

(Image credit: Mark Chivers / Getty Images)

Why do glass windows trick our feathered friends in the first place, you might well ask? Hummingbirds have super-fast reaction times, but their high-tech eyes see reflections of leaves and clouds in window glass as a clear, open sky escape route. Whether you live in a suburban home or an apartment with a cozy balcony, you can easily build an ultra-safe viewing setup. Apartment and deck owners can use sturdy clamps and shepherd’s hook feeder poles placed within the safety sweet spot.

To help break up dangerous reflections, try UV-reflecting markers or decals. For bargain decals with excellent adhesive clout, buy Mesinurs Anti-Collision Bird Stickers from Amazon. These will ensure your feathered visitors refuel safely outside your window.

Shop Hummer Care Extras

(Image credit: DaveAlan / Getty Images)

Elevate your backyard sweet spot from a simple pitstop into a 5-star sanctuary with these specialized care accessories. From pest barriers to crystal-clear optics for spotter watching, these extras keep your station clean, safe, and endlessly enjoyable.

Ant Defense

homedepot Perky Pet Ant Guard for Hummingbird Feeder

This clever gismo is so easy to use, and so effective for keeping feeders clear of one of their biggest foes: ants. Simply fill this reservoir cup with water and hook your feeder underneath. Ants can’t cross the water barrier, which means you can keep your nectar pure and pest-free.

Resting Perch

uncommongoods Copper Heart Swing

Hummingbirds spend plenty of time perching to conserve energy and digest nectar. Hanging this weather-resistant copper wire heart 10 feet (3m) from your feeder gives traveling hummers a stylish observation station to survey their territory in peace.

Pocket Optics

Nocs Provisions Zoom Tube 8x32 Monocular

If you want to get an even better sighting of your hummers without forking out a fortune on dedicated camera feeders, try a monocular telescope. These bargain pocket optics allow you to admire their gorgeous colors and preening habits in a kind and low-key way.

By tailoring your yard’s setup to meet these five sweet spot fundamentals, you provide your hummers with a safe, comfy and high-efficiency haven during their most demanding journeys of the year. With just a few quick placement tweaks and fresh nectar on tap, your yard will become a popular pitstop on the migration highway. Sit back, keep your optics handy, and enjoy watching your tiny, jewel-toned visitors thrive…

(Image credit: Darren Colello / 500px / Getty Images)

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Lots of us love houseplants but – whisper it! – lots of us are pretty good at failing to keep them alive, so would we be better off with a LEGO plant built of plastic bricks? LEGO kicked off its Botanical Collection in January 2021 with a bonsai tree and has grown it to over 50 sets of bouquets and potted plants. With the current focus on leafy houseplants from golden pothos to baby pilea, maybe it's time for us serial houseplant killers to swap potting soil and stems for tiny construction blocks.

According to the Danish brickmaker, the Botanicals range is 'perfect for the not-so-green-thumbed’. As a regular holder of houseplant funerals, I decided to find out what would be best, a bona fide plant or its brick equivalent.

1. Golden Pothos

BRICKS

LEGO Hanging Golden Pothos #11512

REAL ROOTS

Golden Pothos in Hanging Basket

Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to keep alive, its waxy heart-shaped leaves on trailing vines only needing the occasional watering. Forget to give it a drink for a week or three and this forgiving plant will bounce back quickly. It tolerates lower-light rooms, and golden pothos is just as resilient as its all-green cousin – growing houseplants just doesn't get any less difficult than this.

Though pothos leaves are toxic to cats and dogs if eaten, this plant is usually displayed hanging so, lovely as the LEGO plant is, I reckon the real thing wins this first round.

2. Peace Lily

BRICKS

Lego Peace Lily #11504

REAL ROOTS

Costa Farms Peace Lily

A little more demanding is the peace lily, needing 2-3 cups of water every week and boy, will you know about it if you forget. With a dramatic flounce and flop of its leaves, this houseplant is a diva when it comes to dry soil, though quickly perks up once moisture is restored.

Peace lilies do have the most beautifully elegant white flowers but if you want to enjoy them, you’ll need to keep it away from cold drafts and give it consistent temperatures between 60 and 70°F and bright, indirect light. Lots of people love the peace lily for its drama-queen persnickety personality but I’m voting for the no-nonsense LEGO version in this second round.

3. Orchid

BRICKS

LEGO Orchid #10311

REAL ROOTS

White Phalaenopsis Orchid

There’s no doubt that orchids are heartstoppingly beautiful with their arching stems of blooms and glossy green leaves, but are they easy to grow? Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most forgiving and bloom most reliably, and are surprisingly straightforward to look after – as long as you learn the basics.

Pot this tropical plant up in a loose bark mix instead of potting mix, give it moist air by displaying it in a bathroom or standing its pot on a pebble tray of water, and ensure it gets indirect sunlight, and it’ll be just fine. But is it worth the faff? If you’re a dedicated orchid lover, absolutely. But if you’re not, the LEGO orchid brings joy without all the finely-tuned care programme, so bricks win round three.

4. Poinsettia

BRICKS

LEGO Poinsettia #10370

REAL ROOTS

Live Red White Poinsettia

Not just for Christmas, poinsettia makes a cheery houseplant from fall to spring, when it drops its leaves and you prune the stems. So although it’s not much more than a stick over summer, if you remember to occasionally water it and then in autumn, stimulate new growth by giving the plant a daily dose of 14-16 of darkness, it returns for another flamboyant show.

Other than that, poinsettia is a cinch to look after but what makes having the real deal is the ornamental varieties which offer dreamy white, pink or white-speckled bracts as well as plain red. Sorry LEGO poinsettia, you can’t compete!

5. Mini Houseplants

BRICKS

lego LEGO Tiny Plants #10329

REAL ROOTS

12 Costa Farms 4" Assorted Tiny Houseplants

Baby houseplants are irresistible, whether they’re made of plastic bricks or real-life petite stems and leaves. LEGO’s offering of nine mini arid, tropical and carnivorous plants gives great variety from pitcher plants to cacti and anthurium, and I’m awarding extra points for the terracotta-esque pots and that some bricks are made of plant-based plastic, sourced from sugar cane.

Even though nurturing baby houseplants brings huge satisfaction, and this set are all low-maintenance varieties that require minimal care, there will inevitably be one sad compost-heap funeral of the most needy. Consequently, round 5 puts the bijou bricks on the podium.

6. Bonsai Tree

BRICKS

LEGO Japanese Red Maple Bonsai Tree #10348

REAL ROOTS

Grow Your Own Bonsai Tree From Seed Starter Kit

While the baby houseplants were cute, the charm of a petite tree is off the scale, whether that’s brick-built in hours or trained over decades. While the LEGO Japanese Red Maple Bonsai Tree impresses with that sculptural trunk and fiery leaves, the temptation of growing your own bonsai tree from seed is too strong for any gardener to resist.

Goodness knows if it will take a century or more to grow your own real-life red maple in bonsai form to the same proportions of the LEGO tree, but it sure will be fun trying. Round 6 goes to the real-deal one-day tree, rather than the tree that gets made in one day.

7. Chinese Money Plant

BRICKS

lego LEGO Happy Plants #10349

REAL ROOTS

Hirt's Gardens Chinese Money Plant

Smiling pots and an even cheerier pricetag make the LEGO Pilea peperomioides and dracaena virtually irresistible, but the same can be said for the plant itself. The Chinese money plant is one of the most low-maintenance houseplants you can grow, it’s pretty drought tolerant and the round coin-shaped leaves are wonderfully quirky. All you need to remember is to rotate the pot every few weeks to stop the plant leaning as it grows quickly.

Sealing the deal, though, is the plant’s habit of producing baby plantlets around its base, earning it the nickname of friendship plant as you can gift these. Its LEGO partner in crime, dracaena (available from Plant Addicts) is just as unkillable in real life, handing round 7 to the actual houseplants.

The Final Verdict

And there you have it! It was a close competition but real houseplants pipped the LEGO Botanicals to the post in the closing seconds. I like the idea of mixing brick-built pot plants with shelf displays of real leaves though, and the sight of those handsome LEGO plants might just remind me to water my houseplants more regularly.

Can your bird feeder really tell you if a storm is coming? Well, I've always had a soft spot for old wives' tales about the weather. Some, it turns out, have a surprising amount of truth behind them; the bumper crops of acorns and other tree seeds that come before a hard winter, for example, are a real phenomenon – what scientists call a mast year.

Others are a little harder to take seriously. We're told that cows lie down when rain is coming, for example, but I've seen them standing, sitting, eating and facing in what appear to be every possible direction – and I can't say their behavior has ever given me much confidence about tomorrow's forecast.

When it comes to birds, though, I'm biased. My granddad taught me their names and their calls, and somewhere along the way I became the sort of person who knows her birth month bird and the superstition about what the first bird I see each morning means for the day ahead. So, sure, I've always wanted to believe that birds can sense when bad weather is coming... but can they actually?

Can Your Bird Feeder Tell You if a Storm Is Coming?

For those of us who keep bird feeders in our gardens, it would certainly be an added boon (on top of the sheer joy of watching our feathered friends flit to and fro) if the birds gathering around the feeder could give us a clue that a winter storm is on its way.

To find out for sure, then, I decided to do some digging. And, as it turns out, there's some fascinating science behind the old story.

Shop Bird Feeders:

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Hanging Metal Bird Feeder

Dual-Purpose Hub

NETVUE Netvue by Birdfy Pro Smart Bird Feeder With Hummingbird Add-on

Wildpark Wildpark Squirrel Proof Bird Feeder

So, can your bird feeder really tell you if a storm is coming? Well, scientists have found evidence that birds can detect changes in atmospheric pressure – which is especially intriguing, as falling pressure often occurs ahead of a storm.

In fact, a 2013 study white-crowned sparrows increased their food intake when researchers reproduced the kind of pressure drop associated with an approaching snowstorm. There was no storm outside for the birds to see; the change in atmospheric pressure alone was enough to affect their behavior.

Their decision to eat more makes sense; after all, for a small songbird, winter weather is no joke, as snow and ice can cover up seeds and insects. Strong winds, too, can make flying and foraging more difficult. And when temperatures plunge, birds have to burn more energy simply to keep themselves warm.

(Image credit: Chrys35 / Getty Images)

If the atmosphere gives a bird an early warning that conditions are about to get worse, then, there is an obvious advantage to eating while food is still relatively easy to find; it's basically the feathery equivalent of filling the cupboards before a blizzard.

No wonder, then, that my feeder always seems much busier than usual before a spell of nasty winter weather. And, if you already feed birds, it's worth paying attention to the pattern your own feathered friends follow so you can figure out a) if your regulars are suddenly spending more time at the feeder, b) whether birds are visiting more frequently, and c) if several species are becoming unusually active at once.

There is, though, a few caveats to keep in mind: birds also feed more when it's cold, as they respond to changes in natural food availability. Short winter days, too, can also change how much time they have to forage. And let's not forget that predators and competition can alter feeder activity too.

(Image credit: Miodrag Zlatarov / Shutterstock)

All that being said, it's nice that the science gives us a reason to take the old folklore seriously – even if only partly. The fact that birds really can respond to atmospheric pressure changes, and that researchers have found evidence that some species increase their food intake before conditions deteriorate. means that your bird feeder could at least help you figure out if a storm is coming.

There's something wonderful about watching a chickadee dart into your garden, grab a sunflower seed and disappear – and knowing that, in its own small way, it may be paying attention to changes in the atmosphere that you can't feel at all.

Still, that doesn't mean your cardinal can replace the National Weather Service. If your feeder is suddenly hopping with activity, by all means take notice. Then check the barometer, look at the sky and (yes, sorry!) check the forecast.

Hey, if you wouldn't trust your human friend to predict the weather accurately without an app, I'd suggest you don't pile your fate into the little claws of your feathered friends, either! It is, though, a good excuse to feed them a little more as we edge into autumn and winter, though...

Vibrant color-changing autumn leaves are one of the great joys of life, and the 2026 fall foliage forecast predicts exactly which areas will peak, when. Experts foresee that this summer’s drought, above-average temperatures and wildfires will impact heavily on the fall display, making this a year of sharp contrasts, and the fall foliage forecast more handy than ever.

Whether you plan to witness the great fall spectacle in your own backyard or travel to see this foliage phenomenon on a grander scale, the forecast holds useful insight for us gardeners. As well as knowing when to expect peak color, you can use the fall foliage forecast to carry out a quick health check on your garden trees, and discover how well they're coping with this extreme El Niño year of weather.

(Image credit: Getty Images)What is the Fall Foliage Forecast?

First created back in 2013 as a local tool to help visitors to the Smoky Mountains, the concept of forecasting fall foliage has grown to a nationwide predictive, interactive mapping system. Historical temperature and precipitation information is combined with forecasted weather data and details of regional tree types to predict peak times for foliage color across the country. Real-time user submissions refine the predictions mid-season, resulting in a level of accuracy that’s similar to a long-range weather forecast.

Which is the Best Fall Foliage Forecast?

(Image credit: Explore Fall)

You’ll find the original fall foliage forecast on the Smoky Mountains National Park site. However, plenty of companies have taken the idea and run with it, offering a deeper dive for keen leaf peepers.

The Explore Fall Foliage Map (pictured above) is the best fall foliage forecast for gardeners. It gives the very latest picture because it’s updated daily to take into account current weather conditions such as heavy storms or unseasonable high temperatures. A new feature that’s great for gardeners is a local forecast capability where you can place a pin to an exact location to see personalised predictions.

The Old Farmer’s Almanac Fall Foliage Map is more useful for travellers planning fall trips as it relies on historical data to predict foliage patterns and recommend top destinations, area by area. However, because of this long-term data, it’s widely considered to be a very dependable forecast, so it's useful to gardeners as a comparison tool.

The AccuWeather Fall Forecast gives a broader picture but, because it relies on past climate data and future weather predictions, it can be particular helpful to gardeners who want to understand why trees are behaving in the way they are because of factors such as soil moisture and heat stress. Because it’s not aimed at travellers or chasing the tourist dollar, it also predicts where fall colors are likely to be duller, and why this is.

Use all these fall foliage forecasts and you’ll build a clear idea of past, current and expected leaf color patterns for your locality and USDA zone.

Why Do Leaves Change Color in Fall?

Understand what affects fall leaf color and you can confidently make your own predictions for the trees in your garden, as well as figure out the reasons behind what you're seeing in your backyard.

As shorter days take us towards fall, leaves start to reduce photosynthesis and stop producing green chlorophyll, allowing other pigments to be seen.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Carotenoids create orange colors and xanthophylls produce yellow tones. Nearly all tree species carry these pigments, and they’re always present in the leaves, but masked through spring and summer by high levels of green chlorophyll. The trees that bring rich golden fall colors have high levels of carotenoids and xanthophylls and include aspens, birches and hickories.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Some tree species also have anthocyanins that make red and purple tones, and these are produced in fall from sugars trapped in the leaves. Trees that can produce anthocyanins are those with fiery foliage such as red maples, scarlet oaks and sweetgums.

How Does the Weather Affect Leaf Color?

(Image credit: Getty Images)

The weather dictates how vibrant these fall colors will be. For the ultimate show, we need consistent spring moisture that encourages healthy trees able to grow plenty of foliage, and a late season of sunny days that mean leaves produce lots of sugar, combined with cool nights that seals leaf veins to trap that sugar.

What happens in between affects leaf color too. Heat- and drought-stressed trees will conserve water in summer by prematurely shutting down photosynthesis and chlorophyll production – which is why we’re seeing all those orange and yellow tones early this year. Trees that are severely dehydrated will shed their leaves early, their leaves turning a dull green or brown and dropping to the ground, bypassing the usual fall display.

While sunny days can boost the red anthocyanin pigment – scientists believe trees produce it to act as a sunscreen – severe heat- and drought-stress halts its production entirely.

Daylight levels and temperatures also affect when photosynthesis starts to slow, which is why fall colors occur earlier the higher or further north you go.

How the Fall Foliage Forecast Helps Gardeners

Once you understand the factors influencing fall leaf color, you can use this information to not just keep your garden trees healthy, but to get a clearer idea about how climatic conditions are affecting your garden as a whole.

For a start, the color of autumn leaves serve as a quick visual health check to see how well or otherwise your trees are coping with current weather conditions. After this year's extreme heat and drought, that's a really useful indicator of whether or not you need to be giving your trees more support. Comparing your garden trees to the average of what's happening in your local area deepens that understanding and can alert you to stressed trees that require intervention, before the situation becomes critical.

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

Keeping a journal and noting when you first see fall colors developing on your garden trees, what tones you’re seeing and how they progress, will give you even better insight, and allow you to spot early warning signs. Pressing the first leaf that shows fall colors from key trees in your garden, and marking the collection date beside it, can build into a super-useful almanac that will allow you to care better for your backyard trees going forwards.

Appreciating which tree species carry which pigments and whether they tend to peak early or late in fall also helps you create a garden that looks good all through autumn.

And let’s not forget that enjoying the fall foliage in our gardens as trees begin their natural shift into winter dormancy is just one of the many ways gardening boosts our wellbeing too. I’ll be keeping an eye on that fall foliage forecast and booking the predicted peak color day for my garden off work so I can enjoy it to the full.

Great Garden Trees for Fall Foliage

Small garden stunner

Orange Dream Japanese Maple

This little beauty only reaches 8-10 feet tall and 5-6 feet wide, and will even cope in a container as long as you regularly water. Leaves open a glorious yellow in spring, gain pink edges then transition to an intense golden color in fall, in zones 5-8.

Amazing accent plant

Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry Tree

As well as brilliant fall foliage – and we mean brilliant as in bright! – this tree brings pretty white spring blooms and blueberry-like summer fruit for tasty jellies and jams. Also known as the Juneberry, it grows to 15-25 feet high and wide in zones 4-9.

Color-changing Beauty

Bloomables Flame Thrower Redbud Tree

This new redbud doesn't just display a fiery mix of orange, yellow, red and green foliage in fall. The heartshaped leaves emerge a burgundy red then turn yellow, then green, and has reddish-purple flowers in spring, too. Reaches 15-20 feet in zones 5-9.

What Are the Big Fall Foliage Predictions for 2026?

This year’s rollercoaster of extreme temperature and rainfall patterns will result in a similarly wide range of fall colors across the country.

Fall Foliage Winners

• Northern California is predicted to put on a better-than-usual display as tree canopies have stayed hydrated and calm weather is forecast.
• Expect strong colors in New England and upstate New York, thanks to higher-than-usual late-spring rainfall.
• Colors are expected to be vibrant in the Great Lakes and Upper Midwest following consistent levels of summer moisture.

Fall Foliage Losers

• The aspens of the Rocky mountains aren’t expected to reach their usual rich gold hue this year because a lack of winter snowpack caused an early drought.
• Summer droughts and current overcast skies mean foliage in the Southeast and Lower Mid-Atlantic is predicted to be duller than usual.
• Heat-stressed trees in the drought conditions of the Pacific Northwest are unlikely to put on a good display.

Aphids are small, sap-sucking insects that can do significant damage, especially to tender new growth, when they infest in great numbers and are not managed. Aphids can cause curled, yellowed, or twisted leaves, stunted growth, and a sticky residue called honeydew that attracts ants and can lead to black mold.

While these are common garden pests, aphid control isn’t always straightforward. In fact, it’s easy to make mistakes that actually increase the chances that your plants will attract and support an aphid infestation.

Here, we share some typical mistakes you can learn from and avoid with tips that will actually help manage aphids as you see them.

1. Using Too Much Nitrogen Fertilizer

(Image credit: VH Studio / Shutterstock)

Nitrogen is great for encouraging lush, new, green growth on plants, but this can be an issue when it comes to aphids. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t fertilize plants, but overdoing it, especially with nitrogen, can cause aphids to infest a plant, as they favor fresh growth.

When feeding plants, always choose an appropriate product and use a balanced fertilizer if you’re unsure. A gentle, balanced fertilizer like Jobe's Organics All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon is a good choice for most applications. Follow the product instructions and resist the urge to use more than recommended or to feed more frequently.

2. Not Checking Plants Regularly

(Image credit: Natalia Kokhanova / Shutterstock)

Any pest issue is best dealt with early. Aphids are particularly fast breeders, and a few individuals can multiply rapidly within days. Waiting too long to monitor plant health can lead to serious infestations and plant damage that could have been prevented.

Make checking plants a regular part of your routine, like while watering the garden. Look for aphids on new growth, growing tips, stems, and the undersides of leaves. In addition to the actual pests, look for signs they are present: sticky honeydew, ants, sooty mold, and curling, yellow, or distorted leaves. It’s especially important to regularly inspect plants during periods of active growth.

3. Letting Aphids Go Untreated

(Image credit: Getty Images)

A small aphid population on a plant can multiply quickly and is much easier to manage than a big infestation. If you see any number of aphids on a plant, don’t wait to act.

Acting to manage a small group of aphids doesn’t mean you need to jump to the nuclear option. Starting early means you can use simple, safe methods of control. Start with a spray of water to knock them off the plant. Pay attention to stems and the undersides of leaves.

The next step, if the force of water isn’t enough, is to use an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. These are relatively safe and have low toxicity compared to stronger pesticides. You can make your own DIY insecticidal soap or purchase Captain Jack's Insecticidal Soap from Walmart or your local garden center.

4. Ignoring Beneficial Insects

(Image credit: Getty Images)

One of the best ways to manage aphid damage is to be proactive. Supporting a natural, native ecosystem in your garden ensures it is rich in beneficial insects, many of which prey on aphids. These include lacewings and parasitic wasps.

Gardeners too often reach for broad-spectrum insecticides for all types of infestations, which disrupts natural pest control. These products kill pests but also all kinds of beneficial insects. Instead of automatically reaching for pesticides, consider each issue separately and find specific ways to manage them that are least destructive.

How to Keep Aphids From Coming Back

(Image credit: Irina Starikova / Getty Images)

If you’ve successfully managed an aphid infestation on your favorite plants, make sure you don’t slip back into bad habits. Follow these best practices to reduce the risk that aphids will become an issue in your garden in the future:

• Fertilize plants appropriately, using specific recommendations or balanced products according to label instructions.
• Add pest inspection to your regular rotation of garden chores, checking new growth, stems, and leaves each time you water, for instance.
• Encourage native and beneficial insects in your garden by growing native plants and avoiding broad-spectrum pesticides.
• Consider releasing beneficial predator insects, like ladybugs, to increase useful predation in your beds.
• Always act immediately when you see signs of aphids. Don’t wait for a few pests to turn into an unmanageable infestation that requires drastic control methods.

Healthy plants, good management practices, and regular time spent in the garden make it much easier to catch any type of pest problem, including aphids. On the other hand, seeing aphids doesn’t mean you’re bad at gardening. These are extremely common pests that even master gardeners see.

Follow these guidelines, and you might see aphids, but they don’t have to become a garden emergency.

It’s not uncommon for homeowners to set a mowing schedule for summer and stick with it, rain or shine. The truth is that your grass rarely adheres to a strict routine. Sometimes it needs more frequent cutting and other times less.

How often you should mow your lawn depends on factors like weather, rainfall, grass type, and growth rate. In general, while you might need to mow less often in August than you did in July, you shouldn’t totally stop cutting it yet. Thoughtful mowing now can reduce stress on the turf and prepare it to wind down and go dormant in fall while remaining healthy.

Here’s everything you need to know about mowing your lawn in August to keep it looking lush and green until the first frost.

How Often Should You Mow in August?

Too many people make the mistake of always mowing on a schedule without considering if the grass actually needs a cut. Several factors influence when grass needs cutting, but the primary consideration is how it’s growing. Grass that is growing fast needs to be trimmed more often than slow-growing grass.

The rate at which your grass grows can vary by season and with weather conditions. In many places, August weather is hot and dry, which means turf growth is likely slow and your mowing frequency should slow down accordingly.

Repeatedly cutting slow-growing grass, especially in hot and dry conditions, can put undue stress on turf grass. August mowing should be responsive and based on what the lawn needs, rather than automatic and rigidly scheduled.

(Image credit: Getty Images)Finding the Right Balance

There are certain times of year, usually in late spring and early summer, when mowing the lawn becomes fairly automatic. Temperatures are steady, and rainfall is regular, so your grass keeps growing and requires cutting.

In August, it can be harder to strike a balance between cutting too often and not often enough. Cutting too often in dry, hot weather can cause several issues:

• It compounds the stress the turf is already experiencing due to weather conditions.
• Keeping the grass too short reduces its ability to gather energy through photosynthesis and can weaken it as a result.
• Cutting too much of your grass at once can weaken it and make it more vulnerable to disease and pests.
• Short grass also allows more weeds to take hold.
• The additional stress of cutting the grass too much now can interfere with the recovery and active growth that healthy grass goes through in early fall.

Cutting too often and too short is a bigger potential issue in August than letting grass get overgrown. However, you can go too far in the other direction. Tall, overgrown grass blocks sunlight and airflow, trapping moisture and increasing the risk of fungal lawn diseases. Tall grass also attracts pests.

If you cut your grass too infrequently, it will start putting energy into seedheads. You want its energy to go into growing strong roots for fall and winter dormancy.

(Image credit: Daria Nipot / Getty Images)Rule of Thumb for August Mowing

So, what does this all mean for when and how often you should mow in August? Unfortunately, there is no universal schedule. It’s all about watching your lawn and deciding what it needs.

If rainfall is regular and temperatures moderate, you may need to keep mowing once a week through August and even into September. If you are experiencing hot and dry conditions, you might only need to mow every two weeks.

The best general rule of thumb for deciding when to mow your lawn is the one-third rule: Never remove more than one-third of the grass height in a single mowing session. So, if your lawn hasn’t grown enough to require removing one-third or less of the blade, it’s not time to mow yet.

Factors That Affect Mowing Frequency

Checking the height of your grass and using the one-third rule is the best way to decide when to cut the grass. It also helps to understand all of the factors that affect the turf’s growth and mowing frequency:

• Type of Grass. Cool-season grasses tend to slow their growth in hot August weather, while warm-season grasses grow more vigorously and need more mowing.
• Rainfall & Irrigation. Water is a huge factor. If it isn’t raining and you aren’t watering your lawn, the grass probably isn’t growing much. Drought can really stress a lawn, so avoid mowing until rain returns or you’re able to water the grass.
• Temperature. Extremely hot temperatures cause cool-season grasses to slow down or even go dormant. Slow or stop mowing until temperatures cool off again.
• Lawn Conditions. Soil type, soil compaction, shade, and other localized conditions affect grass growth. If you have varied conditions across the lawn, you might need to mow some areas more frequently than others.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

As your grass prepares for fall and winter dormancy, how and when you mow becomes more important. In general, at this time of year, it’s best to keep the grass a little taller, so consider lifting your mower blades.

Those blades should be sharp, too. Check them and sharpen lawn mower blades if they’ve become dulled after a summer of frequent mowing. This simple blade sharpening and balancing kit from Home Depot makes it easy. Adjust your mowing schedules as needed based on weather and growth.

You want your lawn to be healthy with minimal stress leading into fall. Proper mowing helps maintain a dense, resilient lawn that can better compete with weeds and recover from summer stress. So avoid mowing on autopilot and be more thoughtful as you plan your late summer lawn care.

It’s been a long, hot summer so no wonder your patio pots are looking tired, but a quick injection of nutrients now will keep plants flowering for a little longer. There are plenty of plants that reliably keep on blooming well into fall; and there are plenty more that give up as August draws to a close. Give them a boost with tomato feed, however, and they'll get a new lease of life and grow more flowers.

Why Use Tomato Feed for Flowers in Late Summer?

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Tomato feed isn't just a helpful product to keep tomato plants producing fruit in August. It's very high in potassium, also known as potash, which drives not just fruit production but flower production too. And – crucially at this time of the year – tomato food is also extremely low in nitrogen, and this is the element that encourages new stems and leaves to grow. That’s why you stop feeding most plants towards the end of the summer with general fertilizers: even most flower-focused feeds have levels of nitrogen that will stimulate the growth of soft green foliage that won’t have time to toughen up before frost arrives.

However, by using tomato feed, you can still maximise bloom production and keep plants in pots flowering while suppressing new stem growth, so you don't leave the plant vulnerable to frost damage.

The high potassium content has an extra benefit, too: this element strengthens a plant’s cell walls, hardening tissue before the onslaught of winter.

Why is it So Important to Feed Container Plants?

As well as containing potassium to boost flower and fruit production, tomato feed is typically fortified with magnesium. Tomato plants need this micronutrient to correct yellowing leaves, but you’ll often see this chlorosis in container plants at the end of the summer, too. That’s usually because they’ve exhausted the nutrient supply in the limited volume of soil they have access to. In a hot, dry summer when those pots have been watered more often than usual, more nutrients are likely to have been washed out of the soil, too.

So, tomato food can help replenish the soil, also helping plants to flower for longer.

If you want to give plants growing in the ground a boost in August, then a seaweed tonic will reinvigorate their roots to take up more moisture and nutrients from the soil.

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)How to Use Tomato Feed to Give Container Plants a Late-Season Boost

• Before you feed plants in pots, water the container first as normal. Moist soil will absorb the feed far more evenly than bone-dry soil, and this is better for the roots.
• Use a liquid tomato food such as Espoma Tomato!, available from Amazon. Dilute the tomato feed accurately, according to the instructions on the packaging. You’re not doing your plants any favours by adding an extra glug of concentrated feed to your watering can, as a too-high concentration can burn roots.
• Apply in the early morning or late afternoon so evaporation doesn’t concentrate the feed post-application. Choosing an overcast day is similarly helpful to the plant though not critical.
• Water the soil rather than the plant.
• Re-apply once a fortnight, depending on whether your plants are annuals or perennials (see below).

How to Use Tomato Feed for Annual Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

If your plants are annuals, completing their lifecycle in one year – or they’re perennials but you’re growing them as annuals because of your zone – you can keep giving your containers a fortnightly boost with diluted tomato feed until plants die with the first frost.

As plants are going to be killed by the cold anyway, you have nothing to lose by continuing to feed them. This will keep plants such as petunias in hanging baskets and begonias in pots flowering right up to the first frost. If you're a fan of container planting, this little tomato-feed trick will keep your annual bedding plants blooming long after most folks' flowers have finished.

How to Use Tomato Feed for Perennial Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

With perennial plants, you need to be a little more careful, but the benefits are even greater. Feed your plants now and give them another feed in a fortnight, but don’t feed them any later than mid-September or around six weeks before your expected first frost date, or you might interfere with their natural fall into dormancy.

Giving perennial plants a boost with tomato feed now will improve their winter hardiness and avoid frost damage by toughening their cell walls. Some plants will also be able to store some of this extra fuel in their roots for a stronger start when they reawaken next spring.

Handy Helps to Get More Flowers

Easy Feeding

Bloem 2.6-Gallon Watering Can

When using a diluted liquid feed, a watering can with a rotating spout makes it far easier to get beneath the plant to target the soil rather than pouring fertilizer over the leaves.

Regular Deadheading

Fiskars 8 Inch Bypass Pruner With Soft Grip Handle

Regular deadheading helps to keep plants flowering into fall. Getting into the habit of deadheading for 5 or 10 minutes a day will make a huge difference, as will soft-grip pruners.

Consistent Watering

Long Probe Plant Soil Moisture Meter

Consistent soil moisture levels help plants flourish but it can be tricky as the late-season rollercoaster of heat and rain rolls in. A moisture meter means you know when to water.

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Wins series, and there’s still time to do the other August Weekend Wins:

• Remove rose suckers to enjoy bigger, better blooms next summer.
• Use a $4 dog comb to groom ornamental grasses and save yourself hours weeding in spring.
• Trim lavender so it has time to grow a duvet of dense foliage to survive winter well.

“Design is fine, but down the line.” If that’s been your approach to landscaping, who can blame you? It takes time to figure out what will work best to make your friendly little backyard look lusciously expensive. But it’s also understandable to wake up one morning longing for a look of luxe. Fortunately, bringing in a designer look doesn’t necessarily involve bringing in (and paying) a professional landscaper, nor does it involve spending loads on planting schemes.

It is possible to introduce key statement pieces to quickly improve the curb appeal of your house. You don't need a total border overhaul to achieve a tasteful, curated aesthetic. These planting ideas aren’t difficult to maintain and cultivate, and late summer is the perfect time to get your statement plant in position. Just adding one or two exceptional plants to a border can upgrade your look with reassuring simplicity.

Whether you have a small urban patio border, a shady corner, or a sprawling bed, there is a plant here that will bring instant impact to your yard. These high-impact, low-maintenance beauties deliver instant designer sophistication without demanding constant upkeep. From glowing texture to color-shifting blooms, these easy-care plants provide the structure, shape, and luxury aesthetic your space has been missing – for a polished, professional finish that lasts right through fall.

Easy Luxury Planting Options

What makes a garden look luxurious? What makes a border look expensive? Each of us probably has a slightly different notion of these concepts. Cost alone doesn’t cut it. Yes, there are exotic plants that cost more than a year’s maintenance on my 1996 VW camper, but installing something with an impressive price tag won’t get you that effortless designer look. Instead, you can move the ordinary into the stratosphere with low maintenance landscaping, a good eye, and a cool design. The trick is to mix color and texture in an artful and intentional way.

Intentional planting involves repetition, bold textural contrast, clean lines, and thoughtful placement. Luxury borders look curated because plants are given room to look good, rather than competing in a cluttered mix of random choices. But don’t pick fancy plants that need a nursemaid, or you’ll be paying for years beyond the purchase. By pairing strong, robust foliage with self-supporting flowers, the right plant can do a lot of the heavy lifting for you. The plants here can help you to create a sophisticated rhythm to draw the eye effortlessly across the entire yard.

(Image credit: DrewTraveler / Getty Images)

Before planting these easygoing designer specimens, make sure the soil is primed and ready for action. If it is compacted or weary from earlier summer planting, blend a little rich organic compost into the ground to improve aeration and moisture retention. Boost your soil’s natural goodness with a little biochar. Plantonix Char Bliss Organic Biochar from Amazon is perfect for enhancing the spongy base that these luxury plants need and accelerating root growth into fall.

If you live in USDA hardiness zones 3-5, you’ll need to plant these designer plants by early fall to ensure roots settle before hard freezes. Southern growers (zones 6-9) have a few more weeks to make these additions. Always add a layer of dark wood mulch for a professional contrast that keeps roots insulated. Then you’re ready to add one of these cool-but-manageable selections to make your border look more expensive. Who knows? Pretty soon, your neighbors may be coming over to ask for your designer’s name…

1. Limelight Panicle Hydrangea

(Image credit: Bankiras / Shutterstock)

If you want an immediate punch of high-end grandeur and color-shifting drama, this panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) sets the designer tone right out of the gate. In late August, when other flowering shrubs begin to lose their vigor, Limelight reaches its peak. Its massive bloom clusters shift seamlessly from crisp lime to creamy ivory and dusty rose as fall approaches. And unlike moody blue hydrangeas, which demand strict soil pH levels, this panicle hydrangea is low maintenance, thriving in ordinary soil, full sun or light shade, and holding its sturdy stems high in heavy fall downpours. You can buy Green Promise Farms Limelight Prime Panicle Hydrangeas from Walmart in 3-gallon containers.

To make the most of this panicle superstar, give it a prominent place at the back of a border or use it as a specimen near an entrance. Hardy in zones 3-9, Limelight matures to an impressive 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4m) tall and wide. One quick pruning in spring is all that is needed: cut back by a third to encourage thick new growth and generous flower panicles next year. The longevity with these blooms is staggering. And if you leave the dried flowers on the plant through late fall and winter, their papery flowerheads add gorgeous structural interest to frost-dusted borders.

Green Promise Farms Limelight Prime® Panicle Hydrangea

2. Japanese Forest Grass (Aureola)

(Image credit: ImageBroker McPhoto / Getty Images)

Ornamental grass is your secret weapon for creating lightness and texture in a way that is both classy and effortless. While regular turf is losing popularity with its high maintenance ways, ornamental grasses are easy-care, versatile, and pollinator friendly. For a low maintenance yet up-scale border pick, you can’t do better than Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola'). I suggest cultivar Aureola, a golden-yellow, clumping ornamental grass that reaches 18 inches (45cm). It forms fluid mounds of shiny golden leaves that arch gracefully, before turning coppery gold, lighting up gloomy border edges through fall in USDA zones 5-9.

The slender stems dance in a breeze, adding fluid elegance, interest and texture for mixed borders. Leaves are variegated with gold stripes running all the way to the tips. Aureola has a lush boutique glamor, yet it is resilient, easy to grow and resistant to pests and diseases. Just avoid harsh afternoon sun in hot climates, as it can scorch the delicate tips. Buy the Classy Groundcover Store’s Japanese Forest Grass Aureola from Amazon for a dense clump of finely textured leaves. Add 3-5 plants along a border edge to create a ribbon-like wave of golden texture.

Classy Groundcovers Classy Groundcovers Japanese Forest Grass Aureola, 1-Gallon Pot

3. Cane Begonia

(Image credit: Vladimir1965 / Getty Images)

I’m a great fan of traditional wax begonias, but cane begonia varieties (Begonia spp.) are in another class. Lavish and over the top, the cool, enormous wing-shaped leaves have earned these plants the nickname of angel wing begonias. With their architectural stems and dramatic foliage, these easy luxe additions bring elegant texture to your border. Foliage is soaked in shades of green, purple, pink, and silver. Often splash-painted in metallic silver polka dots and deep maroon undersides, these plants look like a living work of fine art, yet flourish with very little upkeep.

While they are primarily tender perennials (hardy outdoors only in zones 9-11), savvy designers nestle potted begonias directly into borders, large stone urns, or pathway edgings to create instant focal points. Grouping a few adds an exotic look, and you can then bring them indoors to overwinter. Place them near the middle or back of a shady border, rather than the front edge. Bright, dappled shade helps to protect the metallic foliage patterns. Happy cane begonias grow clusters of pink or white flowers. Buy LA Tropic Polka Dot Angel Wing Begonia Plants from Walmart for impactful border spots and pathway edgings.

LA Tropic Polka Dot Angel Wing Begonia

4. Japanese Anemone

(Image credit: Alex Manders / Getty Images)

When late August arrives and typical summer borders begin to look tired, Japanese anemones (Anemone × hybrida) can steal the show with ethereal elegance. Cultivars such as Honorine Jobert are especially pretty and add understated grace with white blooms that last well into fall. Named the 2016 Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association, its pristine blooms with their golden-yellow centers dance on tall, wire-thin stems above lush foliage. Planting these gives your border a soft, luminous quality with bright, bowl-shaped blooms that sway on the breeze.

Position Japanese anemones in rich, moist, well-draining soil, in full sun or partial shade. These delicate yet profuse bloomers pair well with ornamental grasses and dark hostas. This layered contrast defines style in a way that is easy to attain and even easier to care for. To steal the look for a classic white beauty like the one pictured here, Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Honorine Jobert Japanese Anemone from Amazon is a real bargain. Thriving in zones 4-8, Honorine Jobert reaches 3-4 feet (90-120cm) tall. Consistent moisture keeps flowers opening through October.

Perennial Farm Marketplace Perennial Farm Anemone X Hybrida Honorine Jobert

5. Hosta

(Image credit: L Toshio Kishiyama / Getty Images)

I used to scorn hostas (Hosta spp.) because they didn’t offer impressive flowers. But after growing some, I’m such a big fan. Hostas are foliage plant royalty, and they put all of their dreams and schemes of making an impact into the leaves themselves. Their lush, sculptural leaves come in rich greens, blue-grays, purples, gold and white, often with multi-colored patterns, dark margins, speckles, and ripples. Massive, sculptural hosta varieties like First Frost or Empress Wu provide instant wow factor with zero maintenance. For an elegant powder blue option, try Plants That Work’s Prairie Sky Hosta from Nature Hills for a luminescent glow.

Most prefer a site in light shade, out of the direct sun. Nothing grounds a shaded border with more authority, and ongoing plant care is so minimal you’ll wonder why you didn’t plant one sooner. Thriving in zones 3-9, these shade perennials range from neat 12-inch (30cm) edgers to huge 4-foot (1.2m) specimens, bringing easy shape and rich color contrast to garden beds. Just group blue-leafed varieties in deep shade, where their waxy protective coating stays vibrant without sun-bleaching.

Plants That Work Prairie Sky Hosta

6. Agapanthus (Lily of the Nile)

(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography / Getty Images)

This may be the easiest plant to care for, yet one of the most spectacular in appearance. Agapanthus africanus (aka the African lily or Lily of the Nile) is a resilient African native that only asks for well-drained soil, full sun, and moderate water. In return, it offers tall, architectural stalks with intense clusters of deep blue, violet or white flowering fireworks that hold their own well into fall. And you can enjoy the same wow factor year after year for decades to come. For exquisite bi-colored blooms, you can currently buy Ever Twilight Agapanthus Plants from Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees) for a 20% discount.

Agapanthus is a plant that takes care of itself and thrives in zones 6-11. The fleshy rhizomes store water and nutrients, letting it sail through summer droughts and periods of neglect. Don’t worry about deadheading or staking! Agapanthus clumps are self-supporting, even if they grow to 3 feet (1m) tall and wide. Bright, strap-like foliage provides texture all year long, while the flowers are large and exceptionally lovely. Blooming straight through late summer and early autumn, this luxe wonder provides clean vertical accents that instantly upgrade neighboring plants.

Trees.com Ever Twilight™ Agapanthus Plant

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

There are few things in the garden quite as magical as a Japanese maple tree in fall. One week, it's quietly sitting there and doing its best to blend into the background, and then suddenly the leaves seem to catch fire – glowing scarlet, orange, gold or some combination of all three.

If you grow one, I bet you probably spend the summer waiting for that moment, but now is not the time to simply admire your acer and wait for fall to arrive. In fact, there is plenty that Japanese maple trees need in August, as what you do now can help your tree head into the changing season in the best possible condition – particularly after a long hot summer.

It's an important thing to remember, because Japanese maples can be surprisingly sensitive to summer stress; heat, drought and inconsistent watering can leave them struggling before the cooler nights arrive, and a stressed tree may also be more prone to leaf scorch, which can spoil the display before fall color has a chance to develop.

What Japanese Maple Trees Need in August

Your Japanese maple tree is still actively growing in August, even though autumn may already be on your mind. And, yes, it needs enough moisture and the TLC required for those all-important healthy roots to maintain its leaves through the end of summer and into the beginning of fall.

Now, while no amount of Japanese maple care in August can guarantee a spectacular display (the intensity and timing of fall color depend on the variety, daylight, temperatures and weather conditions), you can give your tree the best possible chance.

Here are three things your Japanese maple needs from you this month.

1. Consistent Moisture

(Image credit: Feifei Cui Paoluzzo / Getty Images)

If there's one thing Japanese maple trees need in August, it's consistent watering. They do, after all, prefer evenly moist soil, and summer heat can dry the root zone surprisingly quickly (something which can be particularly bad news for young trees and those growing in containers, as they can lose moisture much faster than established trees in the ground).

Rather than giving your maple frequent little sips, then, water deeply when the soil begins to dry. The goal is to moisten the root zone without leaving the soil permanently soggy, and don't wait for the leaves to wilt before reaching for the hose, either. Leaf scorch (those crispy brown edges and patches that can appear during dry weather) can be a sign that the tree is struggling to keep its leaves adequately hydrated.

A layer of organic mulch around the root zone can help, too, as it helps slow evaporation and keeps the soil temperature more stable during hot weather. Just keep it a few inches away from the trunk and avoid piling it against the bark.

Shop Japanese Maple Watering Essentials:

YEE-HENTE Garden Hose 100 Ft

Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch

RTS Home Accents 50-Gallon Eco Rain Barrel

2. Prudence

(Image credit: mtreasure / Getty Images)

We talk a lot about what Japanese maple trees need in August, but one thing they don't need is a feast, particularly if you're hoping for spectacular fall color. Which is why you must resist the urge to pile on fertilizer.

Yup, these trees generally don't need heavy feeding, and pushing tender new growth late in the season isn't what you want. A tree that is already growing well is usually better served by consistent moisture and good soil conditions than by a late-season dose of fertilizer.

If your maple genuinely needs nutrients, a soil test (something like Amazon's Rapitest Soil Test Kit is ideal) can help determine what is actually lacking rather than relying on guesswork. And when it comes to fall color, remember that more fertilizer does not mean more color. The brilliant reds, oranges and yellows you see later in the year are influenced by the tree's genetics and by the conditions it experiences as summer gives way to fall.

3. Protection

(Image credit: Nakarin Tangphunpholwiwat / Shutterstock)

Your Japanese maple doesn't need to be pampered, but August is a good month to protect it from unnecessary stress, especially if your tree is growing in a particularly hot or exposed position, as afternoon sun and drying winds can be tough on the foliage.

Some Japanese maples tolerate more sun than others, but varieties with delicate leaves can be especially susceptible to scorch during intense summer weather, which is why you should avoid any unnecessary pruning now. To be honest, they generally don't need heavy summer pruning anyway, and cutting away healthy branches and foliage during stressful weather can create wounds while reducing the tree's ability to produce energy.

Instead, concentrate on keeping the growing conditions steady. Check the soil during periods of heat, maintain your mulch and keep an eye out for signs of scorch, pests or disease. Think of August as a month for protecting what your tree has already grown, rather than trying to force it to grow more.

Shop Japanese Maple Trees:

New Life Nursery & Garden Shaina Dwarf Japanese Maple - Live Plant

Brighter Blooms Bloodgood Japanese Maple Tree

Expert Gardener Japanese Maple Live Tree in 1-Gallon Grower Pot

If you're wondering what Japanese maple trees need in August, then, the answer is simple enough: keep the roots comfortably moist, protect the foliage from unnecessary stress, and let the tree gradually make its way toward fall.

Then, when those first cool nights arrive and the leaves begin to change, you can sit back and enjoy the show – knowing you've given all of that beautifully blazing foliage exactly what it needed to get there. Huzzah!

A common mistake many first-time fruit growers make is choosing a variety that needs more than one tree to produce fruit. Many fruit trees require cross-pollination to produce a harvest. This includes most varieties of apple trees and sweet cherries among others.

If you don’t have room for more than one tree or you don’t want to commit to growing that much fruit, there are self-pollinating fruit trees that only require one plant to produce a harvest. Though the options are a bit more limited, there are still delicious choices available.

As summer comes to a close, it’s a great time to plant potted, balled and burlapped, or bare root fruit trees. Installing them in your yard or garden in fall allows them time to settle in before winter hits and gives them a head start come spring. Here are the best self-pollinating fruit trees to plant in fall for big harvests from only one tree.

1. Peach

(Image credit: Getty Images)

Peaches are one of the most popular deciduous fruit trees, second only to apples. Though the first thought that comes to mind when you think of peaches may be Georgia, there are peach trees that thrive in USDA growing zones 4-9. So even if you’re a northerner, you can still get the delicious taste of homegrown peaches.

There are plenty of self-pollinating varieties of peaches available, but a ‘Belle of Georgia’ peach tree from Perfect Plants gives you fruit with that classic Southern flavor you want in cobblers, crisps, or pies.

2. Nectarine

(Image credit: DennyThurstonPhotography / Getty Images)

Love the taste of peaches, but not the fuzz? Then nectarines are just what you need in your garden. They are genetically identical to peaches, other than their lack of a fuzzy skin. Nectarines are often a bit smaller in size than peaches, but the flavor is almost exactly the same.

Like peaches, nectarines are self-pollinating and hardy in growing zones 4-9. But late spring frosts can destroy flowerbuds that turn into your fruit crop. So if you live in a colder climate, choose a hardier cultivar like this ‘Hardired’ nectarine tree from Stark Bro’s.

3. Sour Cherry

(Image credit: OLEG525 / Shutterstock)

Many sour cherry trees are self-pollinating, as opposed to sweet cherry trees. A popular type of sour cherry that makes for not only a beautiful landscape tree with its white blooms in summer, but also provides plenty of delicious fruit is ‘Montmorency’, which you can buy at Lowe’s.

The tart cherries this tree produces are perfect for baking, making preserves, or even eating fresh. It’s hardy in growing zones 4-7 and is a great addition to any edible garden or pollinator garden – bees love the spring blossoms!

4. Fig

(Image credit: SabbirDigitall / Shutterstock)

Figs are one of the easiest fruit trees for beginners to grow not only because they’re self-fruitful, but also because they produce quickly and abundantly. Originating in the Mediterranean, some fig tree varieties are hardier than others. So be sure to check your growing zone and the hardiness of the fig tree before you buy.

One of the most popular fig trees for colder climates is the ‘Chicago Hardy’ fig, which you can find online from Trees.com (formerly FastGrowingTrees.com). It is hardy in growing zones 5-10 and can tolerate temperatures down to -10°F (-23°C), which means you can plant it in most parts of the U.S. This particular cultivar can produce up to 100 pints each season, only one or two years after planting.

5. ‘Jonagold’ Apple

(Image credit: aprilphoto / Getty Images)

Most apple tree varieties require at least two trees for cross-pollination to produce fruit. However, there are a few types of apple trees that are self-fruiting. Some self-pollinating apples include ‘Golden Delicious’ and ‘Jonathan’, but one of the most delicious varieties is ‘Jonagold’.

Jonagolds are sweet and juicy, perfect for eating, baking, or turning into cider. These apples ripen in mid to late fall and are an orchard classic because of their reliable harvests and crowd-pleasing sweet-tart flavor. They’re hardy in USDA growing zones 5-8. You can buy a high-quality Jonagold tree online from Trees.com.

What do you get when you cross fluttery purple coneflowers with spiky blue sea holly? The answer is prairie planting perfection – romantic, sculptural, and made to shimmer in the soft dappled light that stretches from late summer into fall. Looks can be deceiving, though, as these graceful beauties are hard as nails, tolerating heatwaves and drought as if they were minor inconveniences.

Add my latest Plant Matchmaker pairing to your garden now, and you’ll get weeks of flowers this year, followed by months of structural seed heads through late fall and winter. Then, the perennial plants will be established in time for next summer, giving you floral fireworks for months on end.

Coneflower (Echinacea) is, without question, one of the best native perennials you can add to your garden, bringing months of color while feeding pollinators and birds. Sea holly (Eryngium) is its tougher-looking counterpart, with steely blue flowers and spiky bracts that add contrast, texture, and a slightly wild edge. When planted together, they offer the perfect blend of softness and structure, and as they both have similar growing requirements, they’re easy to grow side by side.

Which Varieties to Choose

There are endless Echinacea varieties to choose from, but the classic look of purple coneflower is simply irresistible here. Try the Magnus purple coneflower, available from Woodies Garden Goods, for the lovely airy prairie planting effect pictured above. To save money, you could also start seeds this fall for plants next year, with these Sweet Yards purple coneflower seeds, from Amazon.

If purple’s not your thing, then an orange coneflower, like Artisan Soft Orange Coneflower from Nature Hills, will give a lovely warm contrast that feels more modern and energetic while keeping the prairie character.

Magnus Purple Coneflower

Sweet Yards Purple Coneflower Seeds

Plants That Work Artisan Soft Orange Coneflower

For sea holly, I love the look of tall, frothy Blue Glitter sea holly, available at Plant Addicts. When the light hits the plant just right, it shimmers and gives an electric blue aura. If you prefer larger heads, then Big Blue sea holly, also at Plant Addicts, is a great choice. Blue Star, available to preorder as roots from Eden Brothers, is a striking alternative if you don’t mind waiting until spring, as each divided bract is like a ruff around the flower.

Blue Glitter Sea Holly

Plants That Work Big Blue Sea Holly

Blue Star Sea Holly Roots

Why Coneflowers and Sea Holly Work Together

If long bloom times (2–3 months) followed by architectural seed heads in winter sounds appealing, then a coneflower and sea holly pairing hits the Plant Matchmaker jackpot. They flower at similar times, yet each brings something completely different to the table.

Coneflowers, with their tall, slender stems, carry soft, daisy-like petals surrounding rounded central cones, while sea holly adds spiky, structural flower heads and metallic blue tones. Together, that contrast makes both plants look more interesting. Their colors work naturally, too: purple coneflower blends beautifully with blue for a romantic prairie look, while orange varieties create the kind of dramatic contrast that Van Gogh would approve of.

The plants’ flowering seasons also overlap beautifully, and both hold onto striking seed heads long after the last petals have fallen, giving extra structure into fall and winter.

(Image credit: Fasil Tiru / 500px / Getty Images)How to Grow Them Together

Coneflowers and sea holly make natural companions in garden borders. Both thrive in full sun, prefer well-drained soil, and become impressively drought tolerant once established. Most coneflowers are hardy in USDA zones 3–9, while many sea hollies suit zones 4–9, although it is worth double-checking the recommendations for your chosen varieties.

To ensure strong plants and abundant flowering, give the pairing at least six hours of direct sun each day. Neither plant likes sitting in wet soil, and sea holly in particular prefers the soil to be on the dry side. They will tolerate a range of soil types provided drainage is good, though if you have heavy clay soil, you’ll need to improve drainage before planting. Avoid making the soil overly rich, though, as this can encourage floppy growth.

(Image credit: Alexmak72427 / Getty Images)

For a natural prairie effect, weave the plants together, rather than planting each variety in a separate block. Allow roughly 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) between plants, depending on the mature size of your cultivars, and repeat small groups through the border, so the purple or orange coneflowers appear to float among a sea of metallic blue.

Consider height when deciding on position. Taller coneflowers like Magnus can sit towards the middle or back of a border, with similarly tall, airy sea hollies like Blue Glitter threaded between them. But more compact varieties can be brought further forward, so their contrasting flower shapes are easier to appreciate.

Water newly planted perennials regularly during their first growing season, to allow roots to establish. After that, you’ll find both plants to be pleasingly low-maintenance. Simply water during prolonged dry spells and avoid heavy feeding. Coneflowers can be deadheaded to encourage more blooms, but leave at least some faded flower heads standing in fall to continue the display into winter.

More Plant Matchmaker Articles

• Combine These Two Classic Fall Perennials for a Stunning Jewel-Toned Display
• This Dreamy Combination Shines Late in the Season
• These Fiery Perennials Make Borders Glow Into Fall

Gone are the days that only those living in a hot, dry climate thought about drought-tolerant gardens: after this heatwave summer, with hosepipe bans up and down the country, we all need to consider how to make our yards less dependent on water. But don't worry, that doesn't mean you have to compromise on a great-looking garden. These landscape designer tricks for drought-tolerant planting can transform your backyard while cutting the need for irrigation.

The combination of choosing the right plants and enhancing them with complementary landscaping materials can result in a sustainable design that feels right for the local climate, plus works for you. As with any good landscape design, the focus is on texture, color and repeat planting, but landscape designers rely on plants that are self-sufficient once established and tend to self-seed, as well as native plants adapted to the local climate. Using plants that practically grow themselves means that a drought-tolerant garden is also a low-maintenance garden, requiring less of your time to stay in good shape.

The best ideas for drought-tolerant gardens (also known as dry gardens and xeriscape gardens) are so much more than simply practical solutions to the challenges of climate change. Instead, they're aesthetically pleasing designs that tap into the best sustainable ideas to create a dream outdoor space despite limited water resources. It's a natural fit for hydrozoning ideas too, the landscape design method that groups plants with similar water needs together into specific zones.

If you're wondering how to design a drought-tolerant garden, or simply make part of your yard less dependent on water, these are the key tips and techniques that landscape designers use.

1. Embrace Rockscaping

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

Rockscaping is a modern version of the traditional rock garden that's arisen from the necessity of creating low-water gardens, as the stone effectively locks moisture in the ground and shields the soil from extreme temperatures. Rocks partner beautifully with xeriscaping, creating visual interest and helping to define different areas of the garden. Using bold sculptural planting, a rockscape can be planted less densely than a traditional border, further minimising the amount of water needed.

Building a rock garden isn't as hard as you might think. The key to successful rockscaping is to create an initial structure with larger rocks, then add smaller pebbles, crushed stone and gravel to create a full, layered design. Begin with a few well-placed larger rocks to anchor the space, then allow space between the rocks for plants to grow, and use drought-tolerant groundcover plants to spread into crevices and knit the scheme together.

Lowe's has a good selection of landscaping rocks. If you're on a budget, look on Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Craigslist and Freecycle for listings of surplus materials left over from landscaping projects. Using local stone for hardscaping wherever possible is more sustainable in terms of carbon footprint and naturally complements local planting.

2. Use A Dry River Bed as a Key Design Element

(Image credit: Wulingyun/Getty Images)

Dry river beds are an ornamental solution to drainage problems in the garden as well as being an aesthetically pleasing design. Also known as a dry creek bed, this is a type of landscaping that’s designed to resemble a pebbly stream without the water. It allows water to filter down naturally into the soil too, offering a landscaping solution where plants can thrive in drought-prone areas.

This is a budget-friendly way to improve your garden too. All you need to do is dig out a curved path to simulate the stream bed, cover the area with a landscaping fabric that allows air and water through like this weed barrier from Lowe's, then add pebbles. Use pea gravel such as this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot as it's rounded so looks more river-worn than conventional gravel, and mix in larger river pebbles such as these Landscape Pebbles, also from The Home Depot, for a natural finish.

Choose a mix of drought-tolerant planting to enhance the design. Consider tall accent plants like lavender and yarrow, softly textured ornamental grasses such as Mexican feather grass and feather tail grass, and low-growing plants that spread about in gravel like sedum.

3. Include Plant Accents as Bold Talking Points

(Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

The label 'drought-tolerant plant' doesn't sound very inspirational, but there's so much scope for including statement plants in your design without becoming dependent on regular irrigation. Adding an accent plant is a landscape designer trick that's easy to do yourself, and will give your planting design the edge.

Start your search for showstopper no-water plants with succulents, choosing from sempervivum, agave, aloe, and sedum. Crushed stone, gravel and rocks offer the perfect dry and gritty growing medium succulents like, too.

One of most spectacular succulents is aeonium, a showy plant that comes in a kaleidoscope of colors including black, red and lime green. These grow on tall arching stems that add a sculptural touch to your planting design. While known mainly for their waxy rosettes of leaves, many aeonium species naturally produce bright, star-shaped yellow flowers too. These form dramatic, cone-shaped, attention-grabbing clusters that last from late winter through summer.

4. Pair Big Planters with Resilient Plants

(Image credit: Tim Sandall/RHS)

Although container gardens generally need more watering than plants in the ground, using resilient drought-tolerant planting choices in large planters reduces irrigation needs. To give these plants the fast-draining conditions they prefer, fill containers with a standard potting mix but mix in plenty of perlite, coarse sand or grit such as Jack's Gritty Mix from Walmart to create the right growing medium. Add a top-dressing of gravel mulch to containers to help retain moisture in the soil.

In a big-enough container, you can even grow a compact pine tree such as Pinus sylvestris ‘Watereri’, featured in the design above. This hardy, slow-growing evergreen conifer with distinctive blue-green needles and a rounded form is a dwarf variety, perfect for adding year-round structure and color to a container garden.

Standout Plants for Drought-Proof Planters

Zones 4-8

New Vintage Violet Yarrow

Zones 4-10

Color Guard Yucca

zones 5-10

Fire Wonder Delosperma

5. Plant Resilient Ground Cover that Slowly Spreads

(Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

One of the best landscape designer tricks for drought-tolerant planting is to use resilient low-growing ground cover plants that act as a living mulch in dry and xeriscape gardens. They prevent the evaporation of water from the soil and help protect against soil erosion, as well as blocking weeds that steal precious water from your plants.

Fragrant, resilient creeping thyme is a great pick for a drought-tolerant garden as it's happy in poor soil including sand, gravel and grit, and full sun, and once established requires very little water. With soft gray foliage, a touchable texture and showy pink blooms from late spring to early summer, it releases a cloud of fresh scent whenever it's stepped on, so it works well on path and driveway edges, too. At this time of the year, you'll get better results with young plants such as these 3 Red Creeping Thyme plants from Walmart, or sow Thymus Serpyllum seed, available from Amazon, in spring.

6. Blur the Edges with Distinctive Plants

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When you're using lots of rocks, pebbles and gravel in addition to the usual amount of paving and paths, it's important to pay attention to softening the edges of all this hardscaping with planting. Don't fall into the trap of thinking these softening plants are the low-growing, unobtrusive ground cover we talked about in the previous idea. No, these are eye-catching plants that draw your focus away from hard lines with brightly colored leaves, airy flowers or stems that drape artfully.

There are plenty of showstopper low-water plants that landscaper designers use to soften hardscaping such as pink muhly grass, coral bells and creeping rosemary.

7. Ditch the Lawn for a Gravel Garden

Drought-tolerant plants are protected by a gravel mulch that helps to enhance water infiltration and reduce runoff (Image credit: Neil Hepworth/RHS)

It's hard to keep traditional lawns looking good when hot, dry summers regularly wreak havoc on them. With water restrictions in place in many parts of the country due to widespread seasonal droughts and heatwaves, it's no surprise lawns are out of favor, with landscape designers seeking more sustainable options.

If you're looking for an alternative to parched brown turf, consider replacing your lawn with a mix of gravel landscaping and plants. It can be surprising to learn which plants thrive with zero water once established, so it's well worth noticing what's still flourishing in your local climate in midsummer, as this will give you a wider choice of plants than simply those seemed across-the-board drought-tolerant.

It's easy enough to add this low-maintenance and water-wise choice to your garde yourself. Lift the turf, lay a weedproof membrane and cut planting holes to add the plants, then spread a thick layer of gravel. Water well while the plants grow their roots deep enough to source their own moisture but then gradually reduce irrigation.

8. Replace Water-Guzzling Grass with a Native Perennial Meadow

Choose native plants like yarrow and coneflower for perennial meadow landscaping ideas to replace lawn (Image credit: Tim Sandall/RHS)

Another more sustainable lawn alternative is a native perennial meadow. This lovely idea is steadily growing in popularity, reflecting the shift towards our desire to create more wildlife habitats in our own backyards. This lawn alternative will enhance biodiversity and be appreciated by bees, butterflies and other beneficial pollinators, while bringing a loose, romantic and informal style to your yard.

Once you have removed your existing turf lawn, choose plants that are adapted to dry conditions, have low water requirements, and are suited to your local soil and climate, as well as the particular growing conditions in your garden. Select a diverse range of plants with different textures, colors, and sizes to create visual interest. Try native perennials like yarrow, coneflowers, black-eyed Susan and bee balm. Add fine-textured ornamental grasses as a filler to create a fuller, more layered, look.

You can also scatter the seed of perennial wildflowers to create a naturalized meadow, if you're on a tighter budget.

Meadow Flowers That Pollinators Adore

Zones 3-8

Magnus Purple Coneflower

zones 4-9

Coral Reef Bee Balm

Zones 4-8

Strawberry Seduction Yarrow

9. Add a Drought-Tolerant Tree to Shade Plants

Attractive red crushed brick is used in this drought-tolerant planting design (Image credit: Sarah Cuttle/RHS)

Introducing a tree that offers dappled shade makes a beautiful addition to any outdoor space but also has a practical purpose as one of the best landscape designer tricks to shade drought-tolerant planting from the heat. Integrating trees into drought-tolerant landscapes helps protect your garden's ecosystem during dry spells. Tree canopies reduce moisture evaporation from any plants beneath them as well as the surrounding soil. They can disperse the sun’s hot rays, giving shade to cool the air and allowing life to thrive beneath them.

Choose small shade trees that are drought-tolerant themselves such as palo verde, crape myrtle and olive. Resilient varieties will perform well as the climate warms, and be able to cope with rising temperatures and drought, thriving in both urban and country gardens experiencing excessive heat in summer.

Although xeriscape and dry gardens with drought-tolerant planting are require far less maintenance than traditional gardens, they're not maintenance free. All plants need irrigating while they establish themselves in their new home and grow a supportive root system to find their own moisture source. Drought-tolerant gardens need weeding, mulching, irrigating and occasional pruning, too, to keep them looking their best.

However, creating a yard that isn't reliant on regular irrigation long-term is a smart move in our current climate, and you don't need to compromise on style.

If you have spent the last few weeks seemingly confronted by wasps at every turn, you're not imagining things: late summer is prime wasp season. Which is, sure, great news for birds that eat wasps, but not so great for the rest of us.

By this point in the year, social wasp colonies have grown dramatically from their tiny spring beginnings. Yellowjackets, in particular, can become a real nuisance around outdoor food and drinks, although any wasps defending a disturbed nest can become increasingly defensive. So naturally, gardeners are looking for ways to kill wasps (or, y'know, send them elsewhere).

One suggestion I keep seeing on Reddit is particularly inventive: make a fake wasp nest out of a brown paper bag and hang it where you don't want wasps to build. The thinking is logical enough: that wasps are territorial and won't establish a new colony close to another one. And sure, there are plenty of anecdotal reports from gardeners who swear by the trick, including Reddit users who say they've had success with crumpled paper bags.

Personally, though, I find the evidence a little scanty. And if I'm going to stage war against the wasps in my yard, I'd rather forge an alliance with a few feathered friends than whip out the arts and crafts table.

Meet the Birds That Eat Wasps

Oh yes, stay the brown paper bag for a moment, because several beautiful backyard birds are perfectly happy to make wasps part of their diet. And while I wouldn't expect a bird feeder to magically clear your yard of stinging insects, encouraging natural predators is a lovely way to make your garden more wildlife-friendly while potentially lowering wasp numbers at the same time.

With that in mind, then, here are three birds that eat wasps like we eat Twinkies bars (along with a few tips on how to attract them to your yard)...

1. Summer Tanager

(Image credit: KEvin McDonald/Getty Images)

At the tip-top of the list of birds that eat wasps is the summer tanager, but that's putting it lightly, because these striking red birds don't merely eat the occasional wasp when one happens to cross their path. According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, summer tanagers specialize in catching bees and wasps on the wing, and they'll also raid nests for larvae. They catch flying insects in short sallies, then beat their prey against a perch before eating it (take that, wasps!).

There is something wonderfully satisfying about the image of a beautiful red songbird doing the gardening equivalent of pest control, but don't expect to lure one with a standard seed feeder; summer tanagers are more interested in insects, fruit and the habitat that supports them.

With that in mind, rather than trying to create a wasp-free garden, create a bird-friendly garden: grow native plants, keep mature trees where possible and consider fruiting shrubs that provide another food source.

Plant for Summer Tanagers:

Expert Gardener Expert Gardener 1-2' Serviceberry Autumn Brilliance®

Daylily Nursery Daylily Nursery Dwarf Everbearing Mulberry Live Plant

Southern Living Southern Living Blueberry Hello Darlin Live Shrub

Most importantly, avoid reaching for insecticide every time you spot an insect; a garden with plenty of natural insect life is more likely to provide the food that insect-eating birds are looking for.

2. Northern Mockingbird

(Image credit: Melody Mellinger / Shutterstock)

The northern mockingbird may be better known for its extraordinary singing abilities, but this familiar backyard bird has another talent that gardeners might appreciate: eating insects.

Yes, it may not be on the list of birth month birds, but, during the summer, northern mockingbirds eat mainly insects, and their menu includes beetles, ants, grasshoppers, moths, and (you guessed it) wasps. They typically forage around open ground and shrubby vegetation, making them particularly well suited to suburban gardens.

Now, unlike summer tanagers, mockingbirds aren't wasp specialists. They're opportunistic feeders, which means they're taking advantage of whatever useful food your garden happens to provide.

The trick is to give them the sort of garden where they can forage naturally, then; Cornell recommends keeping some open lawn while also providing fruiting trees and shrubs, as they aren't particularly known for visiting conventional bird feeders.

3. Blue Jay

(Image credit: Jeff Caverly / Shutterstock)

Now we get to the beaky wonder that really caught my attention when I started looking into the birds that eat wasps., as there are documented observations of blue jays attacking wasp nests to scoff up the larvae.

Check it out:

Pretty impressive, right? That said, blue jays are omnivores, and insects make up only part of their overall diet – Cornell's review of their stomach contents found that insects accounted for about 22% of the diet, with nuts, fruits and grains making up most of the remainder.

Think of their wasp-eating behavior as a useful bonus, rather than a biological pest-control service... but that's still worth laying out the red carpet, honestly! Thankfully, blue jays are regular visitors to bird feeders, particularly tray or hopper feeders, and adore peanuts, sunflower seeds and suet. They also readily use birdbaths, while oak trees provide one of their favorite natural foods: acorns.

Shop Blue Jay Feeding Essentials:

Wagner's Wagner's 52023 Black Oil Sunflower Seed Wild Bird Food, 5-Pound Bag

Heath Outdoor Products Heath Outdoor Products Birds Dd4-10 All Season High Energy Suet Cake, Case of 10

Kaytee Kaytee Peanuts Wild Bird Food, High in Fat and Protein

Just don't expect every blue jay you attract to immediately go looking for your wasp nest. You're creating good habitat and a reliable food source – what the bird does with the rest of its day is up to the bird.

Transform Your Garden Into a Bird-Friendly Paradise:

Pretty Drinking

Dreamysoul Bird Rain Chain

Pretty Drinking

Mademax Solar Bird Bath Fountain Pump

Feeding in Style

Sweetfull Hanging Metal Bird Feeder

It should go without saying that birds aren't going to replace proper wasp control, particularly if you've discovered a nest close to a door, play area or another part of the yard where people are regularly exposed (seek professional expertise in this instance).

Still, if I'm choosing where to put my gardening energy in the meantime, I'd much rather spend it planting berry-producing shrubs, keeping mature trees, adding a birdbath and putting out a tray of unsalted peanuts.

Because if a few beautiful birds happen to arrive and eat some of the wasps along the way? Well, that's a gardening win I can get behind.

August is still summer, but it’s the end of summer, and perennial plants have been growing for many months since early spring. That means that many of these plants are overgrown by summer’s end and would benefit from being divided.

Division is a type of perennial propagation in which you dig up the root clump and chop it up to create several plants, then replant each section. August is an ideal month to divide plants since cool nights and warm soil will encourage roots to regrow quickly.

Which plants to focus on? Give preference to species that have finished flowering and are showing crowded centers. Summer’s end is a fine moment for dividing plants - from geraniums to shade-loving hostas. It makes your borders neater and gives you healthier, happier plants next year. Grab a perennial shovel from Lowe's that is specifically designed for dividing and transplanting perennials to make the task easy as pie. Here are half a dozen perennials that will benefit from being divided now.

1. Bearded Iris

(Image credit: LianeM / Shutterstock)

With six petals – three upright, three drooping - the bearded iris (Iris germanica) is an extremely popular perennial. It is beloved for its huge, showy blossoms that are super-fragrant and have a frilly beard in the center. It’s this beard with pollen and nectar that attracts pollinators. The plant also sports long, strappy, sword-like leaves. It’s a powerhouse in the garden and can grow to a mature height of some 4 feet (1.5m).

Bearded iris is hardy to USDA hardiness zones 3-9. It needs well-draining soil to thrive, sandy is preferred, and full sun exposure. Water when the top few inches of soil are dry. Never let that soil get wet – and never mulch this plant – or you are risking root rot.

The bearded iris can live for many years. But after several years, the clumps become crowded, congested, and tangled with old and new growth. That makes August the perfect time to divide irises. This gives you new plants and freshens up and cleans up old ones. To divide, cut the foliage back to 6 inches, lift the roots and divide. Then replant with the top of the rhizome exposed to the sun.

2. Shasta Daisies

(Image credit: Niall_Majury / Getty Images)

Shasta daisies have cheerful, white-petaled flowers with butter-yellow centers that contrast beautifully with the plant's dark green leaves. These perennials thrive in USDA hardiness zones 5-9 and require a site with sun – either full or partial sun – as well as well-draining soil. They are drought tolerant but do best if you give them sufficient water to keep the soil moist.

Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) grows in clumps, and after 2-3 years, the clumps get tired and woody. Left to their own devices, these tired clumps won’t flower well in the spring. The solution is to divide Shasta daisy clumps in late summer or early fall. Dig up the entire clump, shake off excess soil and discard the woody, worn-out center. Split the rest of the clump with a sharp garden knife. Split the clump into several smaller sections, then replant them all immediately. Make sure that they are replanted at their original soil depth.

3. Common Yarrow

(Image credit: Getty Images)

You may know yarrow plants as gordaldo, milfoil, poor man's pepper or thousand leaf. It’s also called plumajillo in the southwest – a term that means little feather in Spanish. The plant’s aromatic leaves are feathery and have a lacy texture. The yarrow stems can grow to 3 feet (1m) tall and are topped by flat clusters of tiny blooms - often yellow, cut sometimes white or pink.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) likes a sunny location in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. It grows in poor soil, clay soil, and even sandy soil, as long as it is well-draining. Yarrow plants need regular pruning and deadheading to keep the plant blooming. Even so, they get overgrown at summer’s end and benefit from being divided every few years or when the center of the plant begins to die out. Dig up the plant, discard the center and replant the outer chunks.

4. Hostas

(Image credit: Valeriy_G / Getty Images)

Hostas are known as the queen of the shade garden and for good reason. These popular perennials have stunning foliage and thrive in shaded areas. Gardeners appreciate that hostas return year after year from their rhizomatous roots. They are available in many sizes - from teeny tiny to giant - and a wide variety of leaf patterns.

Hostas thrive in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Although they prefer shade, some can grow in dappled sunshine. Hostas can get tired, tattered, and worn out by autumn. The beautiful foliage turns yellow or brown, and may sprawl or collapse as the plant prepares for winter dormancy.

Use an overcast August morning to divide hostas into sections, making sure each section has a healthy set of roots and shoots. Keep the pieces damp and you can store them for a few weeks before replanting.

5. Daylilies

(Image credit: Daniela Duncan / Getty Images)

Pretty, popular daylilies grow fast and live a long time. They are not true lilies, but are easy to grow, drought-tolerant and attract pollinators. The trumpet shape blooms appear in fiery shades of red, orange, yellow, purple, and pink, and are top choices for borders and edging. They thrive in USDA zones 3-10.

Daylilies are so easy to divide that they would be a great place for a beginning gardener to learn about propagation by division. They outgrow their space every three to five years. Wait until they finish flowering to divide them. This is usually the end of August.

Use clean, sharp pruners to clip the daylily foliage close to the ground before digging out the clump. Then divide the root ball with your fingers, move each one to a new location, and plant them so that the crown is just below the soil surface.

As fall approaches, common backyard birds as well as migratory species are looking for nourishment and cover ahead of impending cold weather. With the transition of late summer into fall, our backyard borders undergo a quiet transformation, but for birds, this transition presents a few challenges, as natural resources start to dwindle.

Migrating songbirds like hummingbirds, warblers, and tanagers require immense calorie intake to build vital fat reserves before embarking on journeys spanning thousands of miles. Simultaneously, year-round resident species (such as cardinals, chickadees, and goldfinches) start looking for reliable seed heads, lipid-rich berries, and dense thermal cover to survive the cooler months ahead.

By establishing bird-friendly plants that provide food and shelter, you can help finches, cardinals, bluebirds, and hummingbirds before winter arrives. As natural supplies get harder to find, you can attract birds to your yard with native flower species and shrubs that provide protein-rich seeds, berries, and nectar, as well as draw insects. And planting shrubs and perennials together will create a safe haven for birds to find shelter and warmth in the coming months.

Bird-Friendly Plants to Add Now

Meeting the survival needs of backyard birds and migrating hummingbirds in fall comes down to three elements: protein-dense seeds, lipid-rich fruit, and secure shelter. Long-distance migrating hummingbirds rely on high-sugar nectar sources to double their body weight before making long trips across the Gulf of Mexico. Meanwhile, nomadic flocks of cedar waxwings and bluebirds seek out rich berry displays, while foraging finches, sparrows, and juncos depend on seed cones.

Always check for regional native plant varieties of these species that are suited to your area, and be aware of regional planting windows. If you are growing in USDA hardiness zones 3-5, you’ll need to finish planting these natives by early autumn. This will allow them 4-6 weeks for good root growth so they can establish and settle before soil freezes. However, those growing in zones 6-9 will have a little longer.

(Image credit: Stanley45 / Getty Images)

Warm late-season soil paired with cooler air temperatures encourages rapid root establishment, ensuring that fruiting shrubs and seed-rich perennials lock in quickly. Just make sure your soil is well draining. If it isn’t, work in some well-rotted compost before planting. Adding in a little bone meal into the planting site, such as Espoma Organic Bone Meal from Amazon, also helps to boost healthy root development in these natives before dormancy kicks in.

After planting, add a 2-inch (5cm) layer of organic mulch to keep soil temperatures regulated for these native fruiting, seeding and shelter options. Visiting birds will thank you – with plenty of repeat visits all the way through fall.

1. Purple Coneflower

(Image credit: Mieneke Andeweg van Rijn / Getty Images)

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a welcome pollinator plant, and also a seed buffet for goldfinches, house finches, black-capped chickadees, and dark-eyed juncos. Goldfinches often don’t wait for the seeds to mature, and visit flowers even when seeds are still green. There are many cultivars of echinacea, but typically only the single petal varieties of the native purple coneflower produce viable seed. You can buy American Beauties’ Native Purple Coneflower Live Plants from Plant Addicts for lush, prolific flowering that lasts right up to first frosts.

Plant in full sun to light shade and well-draining soil. Boost root development by scratching a handful of Dr Earth Pure Gold All Purpose from The Home Depot into the planting hole. Coneflowers grow 2-4 feet tall (0.6-1.2m) in hardiness zones 3-8. Leave spent flower heads standing all through autumn and winter rather than deadheading them during late-summer cleanups.

American Beauties Native Plants Native Purple Coneflower

2. American Beautyberry

(Image credit: Nurana Abasova / Getty Images)

American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) is an eye-catching native. The bright magenta fall berries are the real draw, attracting northern mockingbirds, robins, northern cardinals, brown thrashers, towhees and gray catbirds. As foliage drops, the berries remain exposed on bare stems, making them a magnet for migratory flocks searching for nutrition. Whichever birds get their first are likely to scoff the lot! For a quick-developing shrub, Green Promise Farms’ American Beautyberry Live Plants from Amazon grows well in full or partial shade.

Plant beautyberries in full sun or part shade in well-draining soil. These perennials grow 3-8 feet tall (0.9-2.4m) and perform best in zones 6-10. Planting in loose groups of 2-3 shrubs helps to maximize fruit production through cross-pollination. Top-dress shrubs with a carbon-based soil conditioner like Rosy Soil Biochar Booster from Amazon to hold root moisture through dry fall spells.

Green Promise Farms Early Amethyst Beautyberry Shrub

3. Goldenrod

(Image credit: Solidago / Getty Images)

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) is known as a superb fall nectar and pollen plant for bees and butterflies, but its bird appeal is often overlooked. Beyond hosting protein-rich caterpillars and insects that migratory warblers hunt, its feathery seed heads yield a feast for goldfinches, dark-eyed juncos, tufted titmice, pine siskins, and sparrows. If the stems are left standing through winter, they also create a safe shelter. American Beauties Goldenrod Fireworks Live Plants from Nature Hills is a generous nectar resource, while clump-forming Wichita Mountains is neat and well behaved.

Goldenrod is not an allergen, so it is safe to plant. It thrives in full sun and average, well-draining soil, but also tolerates poor soil and clay soil. Heights range from 1-5 feet (0.3-1.5m). Growing zones vary with the native plants and cultivars, but this plant is generally hardy in zones 3-9. Feed very lightly during establishment with a gentle tonic like Bloom City’s Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart to jumpstart growth without triggering weak foliage.

Nature Hills Fireworks Goldenrod

4. American Cranberrybush

(Image credit: Mike O'Carroll / Alamy)

American cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum) is a self-fertile native viburnum (it does not require a pollinator to produce fruit). This multi-season native presents with showy, lacecap flowers in spring, and the edible berries are glossy and bright red, similar to cranberries in taste and color, though it is not a true cranberry. Just be sure to get the American variety, not the European cranberrybush that is invasive with inedible fruit. Buy Bailey Compact American Cranberrybush from Plant Addicts for smaller yards and modest-sized yards in need of color.

The tart fruits last well into late winter, undergoing freezing and thawing cycles that soften them into a prized food source for cedar waxwings, robins, bluebirds, and cardinals. Grow this native in moist, well draining soil and full to part sun in zones 2-7. It grows 8-12 feet (2.4-3.7m) tall and wide. Work a handful of slow-release Espoma Organic Tree-tone Plant Food Double Pack from Walmart into the surrounding soil at planting time to help strengthen heavy branches. This feed is an excellent investment for other fruit trees and ornamentals, too.

Plant Addicts Bailey Compact American Cranberrybush

5. Trumpet Honeysuckle

(Image credit: K Quinn Ferris / Shutterstock)

Trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is a must-have native nectar source for migratory hummingbirds. Its tubular, coral-red flowers bloom from early spring to frost on this semi-evergreen perennial vine. The spring bloom is the heaviest, but it blooms all summer and is generally guarded by a territorial hummer. In late summer, red berries attract robins, finches, cardinals, northern mockingbirds, thrashers, and cedar waxwings. One of the finest examples is the popular, disease-resistant American Beauties ‘Major Wheeler’ Trumpet Honeysuckle from Nature Hills, which can service hummingbirds and other pollinators well into fall.

Grow it in well-drained soil in full sun in hardiness zones 4-9. This plant just requires a sturdy trellis or fence to hold its heavy vines, which can reach 10-20 feet (3-6.1m). To keep tubular nectar blossoms opening through to fall frosts, it’s also worth adding a splash of potassium-rich flower feed every few weeks in the growing season. Its dense, semi-evergreen foliage provides crucial shelter from rains and predators.

American Beauties Major Wheeler Honeysuckle Vine

6. New England Aster

(Image credit: ESOlex / Getty Images)

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) lights up autumn borders with clouds of deep violet-purple, pink, and rose blossoms. While bees and migrating monarch butterflies flock to its rich late nectar, songbirds eagerly wait for the flowers to mature into fluffy, seed-filled heads. It pairs well with goldenrod to provide late summer nectar as well as seeds. Goldfinches, juncos, chickadees, nuthatches, and cardinals spend crisp fall mornings clinging to sturdy stems to feast on energy-dense seeds. Leaving these natives intact through winter ensures a steady food source. You can buy pink Native New England Asters from Plant Addicts.

Thriving in full sun and moist, well-drained soil in zones 4-8, native asters reach 3-6 feet (0.9-1.8m) tall. Give new transplants a healthy boost by mixing TPS Nutrients Organic Bloom Fertilizer from Amazon into the surrounding soil. This low-nitrogen, blossom-boosting granular feed supports rich petal color and heavy seed production without forcing sappy stems. To keep this plant shorter and bushier, you can pinch the growing tips back in spring.

American Beauties Native Plants Common New England Aster

7. Rocky Mountain Juniper

(Image credit: Ed Reschke / Getty Images)

No autumn bird habitat is complete without dense evergreen structure, and Rocky Mountain juniper tree (Juniperus scopulorum) stands as one of the best choices for cold-weather shelter as well as food. Bluish cones contain nutritious seeds for cedar waxwings, thrashers, warblers, robins, bluebirds, and northern mockingbirds. Added to which, the thick, aromatic foliage is an impenetrable windbreak against gales and offers roosting spaces away from hawks and cats. You can currently buy Skyrocket Rocky Mountain Junipers from Trees.com for a 20% discount. They will quickly develop a columnar shape that is ideal for privacy screenings and vertical accents.

Thriving in full sun and well-drained, lean soil in zones 3-7, this juniper reaches 10-15 feet (3-5m) tall. A 2-inch (5cm) layer of natural wood mulch, such as Vigoro Premium Brown Wood Shredded Mulch, available from The Home Depot, helps to protect these evergreens from drying winter winds. Spread around young root crowns to keep moisture levels steady and insulate roots against ground freezes.

Trees.com Skyrocket Juniper

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Prairie natives need better PR, I've decided. Especially as it is a truth universally acknowledged that any garden designer worth their salt will tell you to look to the Mediterranean when the brief is a garden that can cope with heat and drought.

It's easy to see why, of course; lavender, salvia, rosemary, sage and their sun-loving companions have evolved to thrive in hot, dry landscapes, and they've been giving gardeners a blueprint for drought-tolerant planting for generations. The silver foliage helps reflect the heat and limits water loss, while the tough stems and deep roots allow many Mediterranean plants to keep going when other perennials are wilting.

They look beautiful, smell wonderful and, once established in the right conditions, can be remarkably undemanding. But there's another answer to the problem of hotter, drier gardens – and it's one that comes from a landscape that a) looks very different indeed, and b) is a lot closer to home.

The Prairie Native You Shouldn't Sleep On

Yes, there is one particularly striking prairie native making waves right about now, but, weirdly enough, I first spotted somewhere I really wasn't expecting to find it: in the middle of Sussex.

I'd gone to Wakehurst, Kew's wild botanic garden, and found myself standing in front of the magnificent American prairie they'd somehow been recreated in the English countryside, with towering grasses and wildflowers stretching out across the landscape.

It was beautiful, but it didn't really look like a traditional British garden. There was something wilder and more elemental about it, as though a little piece of the American Midwest had been dropped into Sussex. And among all those plants, there was one prairie native that stopped me in my tracks: rattlesnake master.

(Image credit: bgwalker/Getty Images)

With its blue-green leaves radiating from the base and globes of greenish-white flowers held high on branching stems, it looked almost like a cross between a yucca and an alien allium. It was architectural, slightly otherworldly, and completely unlike anything I'd normally expect to see in a sunny perennial border.

There's more to the appeal than just that, though; those strange little flower heads are packed with tiny blooms, providing pollen and nectar for an impressive range of pollinators, from bees to butterflies to birth month bugs.

It's also worth noting that Wakehurst's American Prairie was designed as a living experiment in climate-resilient gardening, using plants from North American prairie communities to explore how they might perform as our own climate changes. And, if you're in the market for flowering perennials that thrive in 95°F heat, this little beauty is definitely one of them.

CZ Grain Rattlesnake Master Plug Plant

Working well in containers or beds, this prairie favorite has been making waves in the UK as gardeners look for more drought-tolerant plants.

If you've fallen for this prairie native's strange good looks as well, the good news is that rattlesnake master isn't particularly difficult to grow. All it wants (all it really really wants) is full sun and plenty of room for the basal foliage and its tall flowering stems.

In terms of planting, it needs things well-drained and can tolerate the likes of sandy, rocky and clay soils. And, while you should water regularly while establishing it, it becomes wholly drought tolerant once mature and doesn't need the constant moisture that many garden plants do.

That's... well, that's it; you can just leave it to do its thing (and should; the flowerheads can be left standing after flowering for added winter structure).

Shop Prairie Plants:

Clovers Garden Purple Coneflower

Purple coneflowers are an obvious choice for hot weather planting, but they are a beautifully reliable (or a reliably beautiful) one, too!

Everwilde Farms Everwilde Farms - 1000 Big Bluestem Native Grass Seeds

This tall prairie favourite can grow up to eight feet tall, with rich purple seed heads that catch the light beautifully.

Clovers Garden Black Eyed Susan

You can add an instant pop of color to any prairie planting scheme with a slew of Black-Eyed Susans.

Lavender will always have its place. So will salvia. Rattlesnake master, though, represents something that our gardens are going to need more of: plants that can cope with difficult conditions without sacrificing beauty or wildlife value.

And, after seeing rattlesnake master thriving in that surreal little slice of American prairie in the middle of Sussex, I'm beginning to wonder whether the future of the dry garden might look a lot less Mediterranean than we think...

Now is the perfect time to put a few plans in place to make sure your garden looks good for the next few months and sails into fall with style. A pretty autumn-blooming vine here, a refreshed hanging basket there, a DIY run of stepping stones to keep your lawn looking good once the rain arrives and a sprinkling of fast-to-flower bulbs, and your garden will look a thousand dollars come October. And you’ll have achieved it on a shoestring.

Acting in August means plants have time to settle their roots into the ground before flowering, and you can take advantage of late-summer sales. The weather is warm enough for freshly-planted additions to grow strongly, and for you to enjoy spending a few hours over the weekend in the garden. Wait another month before you start thinking about your fall garden, however, and you’ll have to pay more for an instant upgrade.

All these ideas are quick, easy and don’t cost a fortune: which will be best to bring late-season style to your garden on a budget?

1. Bury Bulbs in Your Lawn For Flowers in 8 Weeks

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Most fall-flowering bulbs need to be planted in spring, but get Crocus sativus into the ground in September and it quickly blooms in 6-10 weeks for blooms in October to November. The flowers are small, reaching just 3-6 inches high, but they’re the most beautiful azure blue color that’s a wonderful contrast to the fiery tones of fall.

You can buy 20 Croscus sativus bulbs from Jackson & Perkins for $17.95 and, by burying them in your lawn or the front of a border, create drifts of fall flowers very cheaply. You’ll have stopped mowing your lawn by the time the bulbs flower, and they’re hardy in zones 3-8 so will bring blooms for years. You can dig up and separate the clumps every 3-4 years, too, for free plants and lots more flowers.

2. Refresh Hanging Baskets With Cheery Pansies

(Image credit: Getty Images)

After the heatwave summer we’ve had, your hanging baskets will be looking pretty tired by now, but it’s a quick and easy job to freshen them for flowers all through fall. The Plentifall series of pansies flower most profusely through fall, winter and spring in zones 6 through 8, but cope with chilly temperatures down to zone 3, so simply find them a sheltered spot in colder zones for lots of blooms. The 1” flowers are edible for attractive garnishes on sweet or savoury dishes, too.

Plentifall pansies have a trailing habit so will spill from a hanging basket, growing 8-10 inches high and 18-24 inches wide. Burpee is currently offering four plants for $13.95 with three varieties to choose from: Plentifall Lavender Blue Pansies have pretty blue to deep purple petals; elegant Plentifall White Pansies have dainty yellow and purple centers; Plentifall Frost Pansies fall between the two with a range of pale tones from white to lavender.

There are so many creative ways to turn cheap bedding plants into fabulous garden details, so as well as refreshing hanging baskets, consider using Plentifall pansies to add some other accents to your fall backyard.

3. Forage for Natural Accents

(Image credit: Emma Kendell)

Topping patio pots or borders with a pinecone mulch brings so much texture and autumn style to a garden, and doesn’t cost a penny. It’ll help insulate the soil, too, helping to protect roots from below-zero temperatures once winter arrives.

Another way to use foraged materials as fall garden decor is to wind colored yarn or twine around sticks pushed into the soil.

4. DIY a Water Feature to Light Up Evenings

(Image credit: Emma Kendell/AI)

Nights draw in surprisingly quickly in fall and by the end of October, the sun has set by 6pm across much of the country. A lovely way to light darker evenings on the patio is with a DIY illuminated water feature made with a solar-powered floating fountain with LEDs. All you need to is a watertight vessel such as this cheap polyresin tub from Lowe’s and a $15 floating fountain with LEDs and a built-in battery like this flower-shaped solar fountain from Amazon. Get creative and you could even make a water-feature planter to pretty-up your patio for fall.

5. Add Long-Lasting Flowers With Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Being a succulent, Sedum spectabile ‘Autumn Joy’ is one of the easiest fall-flowering plants to grow. It's a reliable bloomer from late summer all through autumn and practically grows itself, pretty much anywhere. The blooms change color, too, opening a pale pink before morphing into a rosier pink and finally turning a rich copper. While you can remove the faded flower stems after the first frost, most folk leave the dried flat-topped flowers as winter structure.

Happy in sun or partial shade in zones 4-9, perennial Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ plants in 1 gallon pots are available from Garden Goods Direct. If you love the long display of color-change blooms, Dutch Grown stock bare root Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ for a third of the price. While bare root sedums can be planted now, they won’t flower this year, this is an economical way to add lots of blooms for fall next year.

6. Add Fall Accents to Containers

(Image credit: Future Publishing Ltd)

While there are plenty of late-season heroes that reliably bloom through summer and into fall, year after year, buying full-size, ready-to-flower plants now can be expensive. Because these plants give an instant reward of bonny blooms, garden centers and online retailers are able to charge premium prices. Wait until spring to buy them, however, and fall bloomers will be far cheaper – and will establish far better in your garden to boot as they’ll have months to focus on growing a supportive root system before the stress of creating flowers.

So what to do with your patio pots if you’re on a tight budget? The solution is to buy better-value plants that rely on features other than flowers to add eye-catching details to containers.

Frilly leaves

4 Song Bird Red Ornamental Kale Plants

As temperatures cool, the tones of the leaves become more intense, bringing vibrant violet shades to a planter.

Bright balls

Hot Pops Yellow Ornamental Pepper

This compact plant looks great tucked into a fall pot with its colorful display of yellow, orange and red round fruit.

Cascading blades

Feather Falls Carex Plant

With evergreen blades that cascade in graceful arching shapes, this ornamental grass is a texture treat.

7. Make a Foraged Wreath

It’s a quick and enjoyable task for a sunny afternoon to forage for stems to create a wreath. The advantage of doing this in August or early September is that the still-warm weather with allow the stems to dry in place and last for months. My foolproof method to create a wreath for my autumn garden is to use twine to tie small bunches of stems tegether, then attach those onto a wooden hoop with wire – the less attention I pay to making it pretty, the better it always looks!

A post shared by Emma Kendell (@tidy_wild)

A photo posted by

Find a spot out of the midday sun to hang your wreath so lasts for longer, bringing fall style to your yard for very little effort or outlay.

8. Make a Stepping-Stone Path Across Your Lawn

(Image credit: Getty Images)

This is a great job to do ahead of fall and winter and save your grass from being damaged as you cross your lawn in wet or frozen weather. You can often pick up end-of-line pavers very cheaply from hardware stores, or look for purpose-made stepping stones on online middleman retailers, such as this four-pack of stepping stones from Wayfair with change from $50.

Lay your stepping stones across your lawn at a comfortable stride width – and do practise walking up and down them to make sure of the distances – then use a drizzle of sand around the perimeter of each to mark their positions. Set the pavers aside then remove the turf and excavate enough soil to accommodate the depth of the paver plus around 1½ inches. Pack the holes with sharp sand then lay the paver on top so it’s a fraction below grass level, enabling you to run a lawnmower over the top.

9. Plant a Fall-Flowering Clematis

(Image credit: Sergey AND Marina / Getty Images)

One the quickest and easiest ways to zhuzh up your garden for fall is with some fencescaping to turn a boundary from boring to beautiful. And one of the quickest and easiest ways to do that is to plant a fall-flowering clematis.

In a sunny spot, you won’t do better than the Happy Jack Purple clematis vine, available from Plant Addicts, trouble-free to grow in zones 5-9 and abundant with intensely-colored autumn flowers that turn into sculptural seedheads through winter. For a shadier spot, Samaritan Jo clematis, also available from Plant Addicts, is a surefire bet – it’s just as well-behaved and has silvery lavender-hued blooms in zones 4-9. Both these vines need cutting to a foot above the ground in spring so are easy to keep to a compact size.

10. Paint Your Shed or Fence

(Image credit: Shutterstock)

Late August or September is a great time of year to paint a fence or shed as wood has dried out through summer, lower humidity helps the paint dry evenly and moderate temperatures mean it doesn’t dry too fast and crack. Painting wood now also protects it from the wet weather to come, so check the forecast for a dry spell and get cracking!

Current trends are veering towards dark colors in a matt finish that make a small garden appear bigger and create a backdrop to show off flowers and foliage. Our choice for easy application and a good finish is Glidden Fundamentals Exterior Paint, available from Walmart in a wide range of attractive colors including smart Pine Forest Green, appealing Cavalry Navy Blue and go-with-everything Stone’s Throw Gray.

Do one, two or all 10 of these budget garden ideas in August or early September and your garden will look fabulous all through fall, and you'll enjoy maximum backyard style for your hard-earned bucks.